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Songket

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Songket is a beautiful and luxurious fabric used across Southeast Asia.

Aesan Gede Songket Palembang
Aesan Gede Songket Palembang

It is a type of brocade textile found in Brunei, Indonesia, and Malaysia. People use it for special occasions like weddings or religious festivals. It can be made into a sarong, a shoulder cloth, or a head tie called a tanjak. In the past, it was a symbol of high social status. Some patterns were even reserved only for royalty or nobles.

COLLECTIE TROPENMUSEUM Minangkabausche huwelijksplechtigheid te Padangpandjang West-Sumatra TMnr 10003071
COLLECTIE TROPENMUSEUM Minangkabausche huwelijksplechtigheid te Padangpandjang West-Sumatra TMnr 10003071

Making this fabric is a careful and skillful task. Weavers use a hand-weaving method called supplementary weft weaving. They start with a base of silk or cotton threads. Then, they insert shiny gold or silver threads between those base threads. This creates a wonderful shimmering effect on the cloth. The name "songket" comes from the Malay word "sungkit," which means "to hook." This describes how the weaver hooks and picks threads to slip the metal in.

KITLV - 10836 - Kurkdjian - Soerabaja - Female songket weaver from Surabaya at the pasar malam in Surabaya - 1905-1906
KITLV - 10836 - Kurkdjian - Soerabaja - Female songket weaver from Surabaya at the pasar malam in Surabaya - 1905-1906

The history of songket is very old and reaches back many centuries. Many believe it is linked to the Srivijaya Empire in Sumatra. Archaeologists found statues at the Bumiayu temple site that show songket-like patterns. These statues date back to the 8th or 9th century CE. One pattern, called the lepus motif, has been used since that time.

Stone statue of Durga
Stone statue of Durga

Some stories say Chinese traders brought silk while others brought gold. This combination helped create the shimmering fabric we see today.

Many different places in Indonesia are famous for making songket. In Sumatra, top locations include Palembang and the Minangkabau areas. Specifically, towns like Pandai Sikek and Silungkang are well known. Other regions like Bali, Lombok, and Sulawesi also produce it. The fabric has many local names depending on where you are. For example, the Karo Batak call it "jongkit." In South Sulawesi, the Buginese people call it "subbi."

Today, many groups work hard to protect this special tradition. In 2012, Malaysia recognized songket as a national heritage. Indonesia also protects five different songket traditions as cultural heritage. These include traditions from Palembang, Sambas, and Bali.

Unesco Cultural Heritage logo
Unesco Cultural Heritage logo

In 2021, UNESCO named songket a masterpiece of human heritage from Malaysia. This shows how much the world values this beautiful art form. It continues to connect people to their history through every thread.

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🖼️ Images & Media (9)
File:Unesco Cultural Heritage logo.svg
Unesco Cultural Heritage logo.svg
File:COLLECTIE TROPENMUSEUM Groep vrouwen in adatkostuum uit Batipoe di Atas in de Padangse Bovenlanden Sumatra`s Westkust TMnr 60003600.jpg
COLLECTIE TROPENMUSEUM Groep vrouwen in...
File:Aesan Gede Songket Palembang.jpg
Aesan Gede Songket Palembang.jpg
File:Stone statue of Durga.jpg
Stone statue of Durga.jpg
File:COLLECTIE TROPENMUSEUM Minangkabausche huwelijksplechtigheid te Padangpandjang West-Sumatra TMnr 10003071.jpg
COLLECTIE TROPENMUSEUM Minangkabausche...
File:Hoofddoek Setangan lepus limar, AK-MAK-1742-97.jpg
Hoofddoek Setangan lepus limar, AK-MAK-1742-97.jpg
KITLV - 10836 - Kurkdjian - Soerabaja -...
File:Manuriang.jpg
Manuriang.jpg
File:Traditional sasak weaving.jpg
Traditional sasak weaving.jpg
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