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Songket

language culture Maturity 7-9 Next article →

{

"text": "Songket is a prestigious type of brocade textile found throughout Maritime Southeast Asia.

Aesan Gede Songket Palembang
Aesan Gede Songket Palembang

This luxurious fabric is common in Brunei, Indonesia, and Malaysia. It is characterized by intricate patterns made with metallic threads. These threads create a shimmering effect against a background of silk or cotton. Because of its beauty and cost, songket has historically served as a symbol of high social status. It is used for ceremonial items such as sarongs, shoulder cloths, and head ties known as tanjak.

\n\nThe creation of songket relies on a specific method called supplementary weft weaving. In this process, weavers use a base of silk or cotton threads called the weft. The weft threads run latitudinally through the fabric. The weaver then inserts gold or silver threads between these base threads. This technique adds a decorative layer on top of the foundation cloth. The name \"songket\" likely comes from the Malay word \"sungkit,\" which means \"to hook.\" This refers to the physical action of hooking and picking threads to slip the metallic ones into place. Some theories suggest the name also comes from \"tusuk\" (to prick) and \"cukit\" (to pick).

KITLV - 10836 - Kurkdjian - Soerabaja - Female songket weaver from Surabaya at the pasar malam in Surabaya - 1905-1906
KITLV - 10836 - Kurkdjian - Soerabaja - Female songket weaver from Surabaya at the pasar malam in Surabaya - 1905-1906

\n\nSongket traditions vary by region and are often tied to specific locations. In Indonesia, several areas are famous for their high-quality production. The Minangkabau region in West Sumatra includes famous centers like Pandai Sikek, Silungkang, and Koto Gadang. Palembang in South Sumatra is another major center. Other Indonesian regions such as Bali, Lombok, Sambas, and Sulawesi also produce unique versions. The fabric even has different names in various local languages. For instance, the Karo Batak call it \"jongkit,\" while the Buginese call it \"subbi\" or \"arekare\'.

COLLECTIE TROPENMUSEUM Groep vrouwen in adatkostuum uit Batipoe di Atas in de Padangse Bovenlanden Sumatra`s Westkust TMnr 60003600
COLLECTIE TROPENMUSEUM Groep vrouwen in adatkostuum uit Batipoe di Atas in de Padangse Bovenlanden Sumatra`s Westkust TMnr 60003600

\n\nThe history of songket is deeply connected to the Srivijaya Empire. This was a wealthy maritime trading empire based in Sumatra from the 7th to the 13th century. Many songket styles originate from lands that were once under Srivijaya rule. Archaeological evidence supports this ancient connection. Statues found at the Bumiayu temple site in South Sumatra show clothing with songket-like motifs. These statues date back to the 8th or 9th century CE. One specific pattern, the lepus motif, can be seen on the vests of these ancient figures.

Stone statue of Durga
Stone statue of Durga

\n\nHistorical accounts suggest that trade played a massive role in the development of the craft. A Palembang folk tradition claims Chinese traders brought silk threads to the region. Meanwhile, Indian or Middle Eastern traders are said to have brought the gold threads. This combination of materials created the exquisite, shimmering fabric known today. Some scholars suggest the weaving techniques may have arrived from India via Sumatra. Others believe the technique moved from the north through the Cambodia-Siam region.

Manuriang
Manuriang

\n\nSongket has always been a marker of social standing and ceremony. In the past, it was often reserved for royal families and the nobility. For example, the Deli Sultanate and the Palembang Sultanate used songket for court dress. In Brunei, the fabric has been mandated for royal ceremonies since the time of Omar Ali Saifuddien III. Certain motifs were strictly controlled by social rank. In Palembang, the lepus motif was originally reserved only for the aristocracy, or \"bangsawan.\" Even marital status was sometimes shown through the cloth, such as specific shoulder cloths worn by widows.

COLLECTIE TROPENMUSEUM Minangkabausche huwelijksplechtigheid te Padangpandjang West-Sumatra TMnr 10003071
COLLECTIE TROPENMUSEUM Minangkabausche huwelijksplechtigheid te Padangpandjang West-Sumatra TMnr 10003071

\n\nToday, songket is recognized as a vital part of the cultural identity of Southeast Asia. Many governments have taken steps to protect these traditions. In 2012, the Malaysian Ministry of Tourism, Arts, and Culture recognized songket as intangible national heritage. Indonesia has also recognized five distinct songket traditions as Intangible Cultural Heritage. These include the traditions of Palembang, Sambas, Pandai Sikek, Beratan, and Silungkang. In 2021, UNESCO officially recognized songket from Malaysia as a Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity.

Unesco Cultural Heritage logo
Unesco Cultural Heritage logo

",

"media": [

"File:Aesan Gede Songket Palembang.jpg",

"File:Hoofddoek Setangan lepus limar, AK-MAK-1742-97.Rijksmuseum Amsterdam",

"File:KITLV - 10836 - Kurkdjian - Soerabaja - Female songket weaver from Surabaya at the pasar malam in Surabaya - 1905-1906.tif",

"File:COLLECTIE TROPENMUSEUM Groep vrouwen in adatkostuum uit Batipoe di Atas in de Padangse Bovenlanden Sumatra`s Westkust TMnr 60003600.jpg",

"File:Stone statue of Durga.jpg",

"File:Manuriang.jpg",

"File:COLLECTIE TROPENMUSEUM Minangkabausche huwelijksplechtigheid te Padangpandjang West-Sumatra TMnr 10003071.jpg",

"File:Unesco Cultural Heritage logo.svg"

]

}

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🖼️ Images & Media (9)
File:Unesco Cultural Heritage logo.svg
Unesco Cultural Heritage logo.svg
File:COLLECTIE TROPENMUSEUM Groep vrouwen in adatkostuum uit Batipoe di Atas in de Padangse Bovenlanden Sumatra`s Westkust TMnr 60003600.jpg
COLLECTIE TROPENMUSEUM Groep vrouwen in...
File:Aesan Gede Songket Palembang.jpg
Aesan Gede Songket Palembang.jpg
File:Stone statue of Durga.jpg
Stone statue of Durga.jpg
File:COLLECTIE TROPENMUSEUM Minangkabausche huwelijksplechtigheid te Padangpandjang West-Sumatra TMnr 10003071.jpg
COLLECTIE TROPENMUSEUM Minangkabausche...
File:Hoofddoek Setangan lepus limar, AK-MAK-1742-97.jpg
Hoofddoek Setangan lepus limar, AK-MAK-1742-97.jpg
KITLV - 10836 - Kurkdjian - Soerabaja -...
File:Manuriang.jpg
Manuriang.jpg
File:Traditional sasak weaving.jpg
Traditional sasak weaving.jpg
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