Brocade

Brocade is a category of richly decorated, shuttle-woven fabrics.

These textiles are often crafted from colored silks. Weavers frequently incorporate gold or silver threads to add brilliance. The term originates from an Italian word meaning "embossed cloth." This etymology traces back to the idea of setting something with small nails. Today, brocade is valued for its complex textures and elegant appearance.

Weavers create these intricate patterns using a specific method called supplementary weft. In this technique, the weaver uses a draw loom to add extra threads. These threads are non-structural, meaning they do not hold the warp threads together. Instead, they sit on top of the main weave to create ornamentation. This process gives the fabric the appearance of being embroidered. The added threads can sometimes make the material feel stiffer. The patterns often create a low relief effect on the fabric's surface.

There are different ways to handle these extra threads on the back of the cloth. In continuous brocade, the supplementary weft runs from one selvage to the other. This results in loose groups of floating threads on the underside. Other methods, known as cutwork or broché, involve cutting the yarns away. A discontinuous brocade is another type where the extra yarn only appears in patterned areas. These variations change how the fabric feels and looks from both sides.

The history of brocade spans many centuries and diverse cultures. In China, the manufacture of brocade began during the Warring States period. Archaeologists have discovered many brocade products in tombs from that era. China developed several famous regional styles. These include Yunjin, or "Cloud brocade," from Nanjing. Other notable styles are Song brocade from Suzhou and Shu brocade from Chengdu. In the Malay world, a similar type of brocade is known as Songket.

For much of history, brocade was a luxury reserved for the nobility. During the Middle Ages, the Byzantine Empire was a major producer of silk. For a long time, the Chinese kept the secrets of sericulture private. Sericulture is the process of breeding and raising silkworms. In the 6th century, two monks brought these secrets to the Byzantine emperor. By the 9th century, Byzantium became a central producer of silk motifs for the Western world. The Byzantine emperor charged extreme prices, making the fabric available only to the wealthiest people.

During the Renaissance, Italy became the most important manufacturer of fine silk. The complexity of Italian silk designs increased significantly during the 15th century. Historians believe this growth required improvements to silk-weaving looms. The elegant, sculptural lines of Renaissance fashion paired well with brocade.

In the Late Middle Ages, wealthy Europeans also wore velvets trimmed with fur. The Court of Burgundy was particularly famous for its luxurious dress during this time.

In the modern era, brocade is produced largely on Jacquard looms. These machines use the Jacquard technique to create complex, tapestry-like designs. While they look like tapestries, they should not be confused with true tapestries. Today, these fabrics are used for upholstery, draperies, and formal evening wear. They are also used for religious vestments and costumes. In India, Banarasi brocade is used extensively for saris and dresses. While older styles used precious stones, modern versions often use sequins and beading.