Lace

Lace is a delicate fabric characterized by an open, weblike pattern.

It is created by looping, plaiting, twisting, or knotting threads. This process can be done by hand or by machine. The word "lace" comes from Middle English and Old French roots meaning "noose" or "string." This describes the open spaces outlined by thread. While many people view lace as a single craft, it actually encompasses several different techniques. For example, knitted lace is a form of knitting, and crocheted lace is a form of crochet.

Handmade lace is generally categorized into two primary methods: needle lace and bobbin lace. Bobbin lace, also known as bone lace, requires several bobbins to hold the thread. These bobbins are often made from wood, bone, or plastic. The maker weaves the threads together and pins them onto a pattern template. This template is placed on a stiff pillow filled with materials like straw, sawdust, or foam.

Needle lace is constructed differently. It uses a single needle and thread to build the design. Some styles, like Venetian Gros Point, are incredibly time-consuming to complete.

Many other specialized types of lace exist. Chemical lace is typically made by machine. It uses a water-soluble or non-heat-resistant material to create a stitching ground. Once the embroidery is finished, the ground is dissolved away. Cutwork, also called whitework, is made by removing threads from a woven background. The remaining threads are then filled with embroidery. There is also tape lace, which uses thin woven strips called tape. These strips are joined and embellished with needle or bobbin work.

Other forms include tatting, which uses a shuttle or needle to create knots and loops.

Historians still debate the exact origins of lace. One claim points to a 1493 will from the Sforza family in Italy. Another claim looks at a painting from 1485 by Hans Memling. This painting shows lace on a priest's clothing.

Because lace is so fragile, very few ancient specimens still exist. Originally, makers used expensive threads like silk, gold, or silver. Today, most lace is made with cotton or synthetic fibers. However, linen and silk are still used, and some modern artists even use fine copper or silver wire.

Lace has a long and complex history in Europe. In the 1300s and 1400s, Italian states imposed heavy duties on lace. They even passed strict sumptuary laws to control its use. These laws regulated who could wear certain luxury items. In the 1500s, lace became a major part of the cottage industry. In Venice, lace making was a pastime for noblewomen. By 1595, a wife of a doge founded a workshop for 130 women.

In Belgium, the industry grew because of locally grown flax. This produced the fine linen threads needed for high-quality Belgian lace.

Different nations developed famous lace traditions. France became a major center after Catherine de Medici brought Venetian makers to her court in 1533. King Louis XIV's reign saw great extravagance in lace fashion. His minister, Jean Baptiste Colbert, even established lace schools to strengthen the industry. In Germany, a woman named Barbara Uttmann started a workshop in 1561. By 1575, there were over 30,000 lacemakers in her area. In England, lace making was significant in Devon and the South Midlands. One tradition, Cattern's Day, may come from Catherine of Aragon. On this day, lacemakers celebrated with small dough cakes called Cattern cakes.

Lace has also traveled to the Americas. In the 1700s, lace making was taught in American boarding schools. In Massachusetts, the town of Ipswich was known for producing handmade lace. Even in the 1634 colonies, sumptuary laws existed to prevent the purchase of luxury lace. This suggests that lace was already being made or used there. Today, lace remains a symbol of skill and beauty. Some knitted lace, like the Shetland wedding ring shawl, is so fine it can pass through a wedding ring.