Tapestry

Tapestry is a specialized form of textile art created through hand-weaving on a loom.

While many woven fabrics focus on repeating patterns, tapestry is primarily used to create complex figurative images. Technically, tapestry is defined as weft-faced weaving. In this process, the horizontal weft threads completely cover the vertical warp threads. This differs from most other textiles where both sets of threads remain visible. This method allows artisans to interlace different colored weft yarns in small, discontinuous areas to build a detailed picture.

The production of a tapestry is a highly technical and labor-intensive process. Weavers typically use a natural warp, such as wool, linen, or cotton. The weft threads are usually wool or cotton, but can include luxurious materials like silk, gold, or silver.

To guide the design, the weaver follows a full-size drawing called a cartoon. This cartoon is often created from a smaller preliminary sketch known as a modello. On a high-warp loom, the tapestry hangs vertically in front of the weaver. The artisan often works from the back of the piece. They may use mirrors to see the front of the work. On a low-warp loom, the cartoon is often cut into strips and placed beneath the warp threads. This allows the weaver to see the design through the web of threads.

There are two primary types of looms used in traditional tapestry making. High-warp looms, or haute lisse, hold the textile in a vertical position. Low-warp looms, or basse lisse, are horizontal. In the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, large workshops often utilized low-warp looms for massive projects. Later, low-warp looms became more common for producing smaller, more personal pieces. The quality of the finished work often depends on the tightness of the weave. This is measured by the number of warp threads per centimeter. A single weaver might produce only half a square yard of fine-quality tapestry in one month.

The history of tapestry spans thousands of years and many different cultures.

In ancient Egypt, tapestry weave pieces were found in the tombs of Thutmose IV and Tutankhamen. Some very old wool pieces were also discovered in the Tarim Basin. In late medieval Europe, tapestry became the most expensive medium for two-dimensional figurative images. It held this prestigious position even as painting grew in importance. The European tradition continued until the French Revolution and the Napoleonic Wars. It was later revived on a smaller scale during the 19th century. In England, the term "tapestry" was recorded as early as 1434 in a legal will.

Material choices significantly impacted the value and prestige of these works. Using silk can increase the cost of a piece by four times. Adding gold thread increases the cost even more drastically. For example, gold thread could make a tapestry cost fifty times more than one made of wool alone.

Because the work was physically demanding, weavers were usually men. However, the spinning of the threads was typically a task for women. These expensive materials were often reserved for royal collections and noble patrons.

Tapestries served many practical and symbolic functions in society.

They were highly portable, acting as "nomadic murals" for kings and noblemen. Rulers could fold tapestries into large canvas bags and transport them on carts between residences. In palaces, they provided insulation against the cold during winter. They were also used for decoration during weddings, coronations, or royal entries. In churches, they were displayed on special occasions. A specific type of tapestry, called a baldachin or cloth of state, was hung behind a throne to symbolize authority.

Over time, the role of tapestry shifted as artistic tastes changed. As painting became the preferred medium by the 17th century, tapestries became more permanent room fittings. Many were even cut to fit around doors and windows. Some tapestries were repurposed into smaller items like cushions, curtains, or even clothing. In extreme cases, tapestries with precious metal threads were burned to recover the metal.

Today, the term "tapestry" is used broadly. It can describe the specific weaving technique or any large textile wall hanging with a design. This includes some embroidered works, like the famous Bayeux Tapestry, which is technically embroidery rather than woven tapestry.