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Artificial leather

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Artificial leather is a manufactured material designed to substitute for animal leather. It is frequently used in upholstery, clothing, footwear, and other items where a leather-like finish is desired. People choose these materials when real leather is too expensive or unsuitable for specific practical or ethical reasons. This material is known by many names, including synthetic leather, faux leather, vegan leather, and pleather. It is also called leatherette or PU leather, which refers to polyurethane.

Reproduction Mk VII Gas Mask Bag -11
Reproduction Mk VII Gas Mask Bag -11

There are several ways to manufacture these materials. One current method involves using an embossed release paper known as casting paper. This paper acts as a form to create the surface finish. The paper holds the texture of top-grain leather in a negative shape. Manufacturers coat this paper with several layers of plastic, such as polyvinyl chloride (PVC) or polyurethane. These layers might include a color layer, a foam layer, an adhesive, or a fabric layer.

Synthetic PU leather HC1
Synthetic PU leather HC1

The material is then cured, and the release paper is removed and possibly reused.

Different types of artificial leather have unique properties. Some are porous and breathable, making them comfortable for clothing. Others are impermeable and waterproof. For example, poromerics consist of a plastic coating on a fibrous base layer, usually polyester. The term was coined by DuPont, combining "porous" and "polymeric." Another type is leatherette, which is made by covering a natural or synthetic fabric with a soft PVC layer.

Synthetic PU leather HC1
Synthetic PU leather HC1

There is also cork leather, which is made from compressed bark from cork oak trees.

History shows a long evolution of these materials. In 19th-century Germany, inventors created Presstoff from layered and treated paper pulp. It became widely used in Germany during the Second World War when leather was rationed. However, Presstoff could not be used for footwear because it would delaminate under moisture or flex wear. In the United Kingdom, Rexine was produced by Rexine Ltd near Manchester. Starting in the 1920s, Rexine was used for bookbinding and motor vehicle interiors. It cost only about one-quarter of the price of real leather.

DuPont also played a major role in the history of synthetic materials. In 1963, they introduced Corfam, a poromeric material, at the Chicago Shoe Show. They even featured Corfam at the 1964 New York World's Fair. DuPont spent millions of dollars marketing these shoes to manufacturers. However, they withdrew Corfam from the market in 1971 and sold the rights to a company in Poland.

1968 Mercedes Benz W108 Interior Front Seats
1968 Mercedes Benz W108 Interior Front Seats

Today, many different brands exist, such as Alcantara from Japan or MB-Tex used in Mercedes-Benz vehicles.

Artificial leather has different effects on the environment. Producing PVC often requires petroleum feedstocks and large amounts of energy. To make PVC flexible, a plasticizer called a phthalate is required. If PVC ends up in a landfill, it does not decompose like real leather. It can release chemicals like dioxins into the soil and water. Because of this, polyurethane is currently more popular than PVC. Some artificial leathers also contain traces of restricted substances, such as the paint ingredient butanone oxime.

Reproduction Mk VII Gas Mask Bag -11
Reproduction Mk VII Gas Mask Bag -11

Despite these concerns, some artificial leathers are more sustainable. Plant-based leathers use only plant materials rather than plastic. Some reports suggest that making artificial leather can be better for the planet than making real leather. A 2018 sustainability report by Kering stated that the impact of vegan leather production can be up to one-third lower than real leather. Scientists are even developing new methods using biotechnology. They are working to make collagen through fermentation or using fungi, yeasts, and bacterial strains to create vegan leather.

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File:Reproduction Mk VII Gas Mask Bag -11.jpg
Reproduction Mk VII Gas Mask Bag -11.jpg
File:Synthetic PU leather HC1.jpg
Synthetic PU leather HC1.jpg
File:1968 Mercedes Benz W108 Interior Front Seats.jpg
1968 Mercedes Benz W108 Interior Front Seats.jpg
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