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Tanning (leather)

technology Maturity 11-13 Next article →

Tanning is the chemical process used to transform animal skins and hides into leather. This procedure is essential because it permanently alters the protein structure of the skin. By changing these proteins, the material becomes much more durable and resistant to decomposition. Without this process, skins would rot or change color quickly.

JBS Tannery
JBS Tannery

A facility where this work happens is called a tannery. Historically, tanning was often seen as a foul-smelling trade. Because of the odors, tanneries were frequently placed on the outskirts of towns. This isolation continues in some places today where ancient methods are still used.

The journey from raw hide to leather begins with curing. Curing is a preservation step that prevents the collagen from rotting due to bacterial growth. This is often done by applying salt to the hides. In wet-salting, hides are heavily salted and pressed into packs for 30 days. Brine-curing is another method where hides are agitated in a saltwater bath for 16 hours. Curing works by removing water through osmotic pressure. This reduces moisture so that bacteria cannot survive.

Rabbit pelt tanned
Rabbit pelt tanned

After curing, the hides undergo several "beamhouse operations." The first step is soaking the hides in clean water. This removes leftover salt and increases moisture for further treatment. Next comes liming, where hides are treated with a basic agent like milk of lime. Liming serves several purposes. It removes hair and other keratinous matter. It also removes natural grease and fats. Most importantly, it causes the fibers to swell and split to the desired extent.

ManCleaningAnimalSkin
ManCleaningAnimalSkin

Any remaining hair is then removed through a mechanical process called scudding, using a dull knife. Following this, the hides undergo deliming and bating. Bating is a process used to soften the material. In the past, this relied on enzymes from bacterial fermentation in animal dung. Modern tanning uses purified enzymes instead.

The actual tanning step is often called pickling. In vegetable tanning, hides soak in a bath containing tannins. These tannins are acidic compounds found in the bark of trees or the shells of nuts. Sources for these include oak bark, sumac leaves, acacia trees, and walnut shells. This method is quite slow. In contrast, mineral tanning is much faster. One major type of mineral tanning is chrome tanning. This method was adopted after 1840, following its use in medicine for soaking gut sutures.

Peeling hemlock bark for tanning
Peeling hemlock bark for tanning

Chrome tanning uses chromium(III) salts, such as chromium(III) sulfate. This is considered a very efficient and effective tanning agent. The process involves complex chemistry to ensure the chromium penetrates the hide. First, the pH must be very acidic so the chromium complexes are small enough to fit between collagen fibers. Once the chromium has penetrated, the tanner performs a step called basification. This involves raising the pH to help the chromium coordinate with the collagen. This chemical cross-linking increases the spacing between protein chains from 10 to 17 Å.

Possible Chromium(III) Tanning Mechanisms
Possible Chromium(III) Tanning Mechanisms

Because it is so rapid, chrome tanning can take less than one day. The resulting leather is often called "wet blue" because the skins appear greyish-blue in their raw tanned state.

PPH Drum
PPH Drum

Humans have been working with leather for hundreds of thousands of years. Evidence of leather working was found at Hoxne, England, dating back about 400,000 years. Ancient civilizations used leather for a massive variety of tools. They created waterskins, bags, harnesses, armor, and even boats. In Pakistan, inhabitants of Mehrgarh were tanning hides between 7000 and 3300 BCE. By 2500 BCE, the Sumerians were even using leather on chariot wheels, held in place by copper studs.

Today, the type of tanning used determines how the leather is used. Vegetable tanned leather is preferred for leather crafting. It is used to make high-quality small items like wallets, handbags, and clothing. Mineral tanned leather, specifically chrome tanned leather, is used for different purposes. It is the primary choice for mass-produced items like car seats, home upholstery, and many types of shoes. This distinction allows the industry to meet different needs for durability and style.

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🖼️ Images & Media (9)
File:JBS Tannery.jpg
JBS Tannery.jpg
File:Lohgerber 1880.jpg
Lohgerber 1880.jpg
File:Mendel II 077 r.jpg
Mendel II 077 r.jpg
File:Peeling hemlock bark for tanning.jpg
Peeling hemlock bark for tanning.jpg
File:Rabbit pelt tanned.jpg
Rabbit pelt tanned.jpg
File:ManCleaningAnimalSkin.jpg
ManCleaningAnimalSkin.jpg
File:PPH Drum.jpg
PPH Drum.jpg
Possible Chromium(III) Tanning Mechanisms.tif
File:Garvat fiskskinn lax.jpg
Garvat fiskskinn lax.jpg
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