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Brooch

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A brooch is a decorative piece of jewelry designed to be attached to garments. It often serves the practical purpose of fastening clothing together. Most brooches are made from metals such as gold or silver. Many are further decorated with gemstones or colorful enamel. Because fashion trends change so rapidly, these items act as important chronological indicators for historians. In the study of ancient European history, archaeologists often refer to these items by the Latin term fibula.

Wing Brooch MET DT108
Wing Brooch MET DT108

During the Iron Age in Europe, metalworking technology improved significantly. Craftsmen used new techniques like casting, wire making, and metal bar-twisting to create fibulae. In Britain, the earliest manufacture occurred between 600 and 150 BC. Most Iron Age brooches in Britain were cast in one piece. These were typically made from iron or copper alloy. Gold and silver were rarely used for jewelry before the late Iron Age. Common shapes during this time included the bow, the plate, and the penannular brooch.

Between the 5th and 8th centuries, the Migration period saw unique metalwork from Germanic tribes. These tribes included the Visigoths, Ostrogoths, Franks, Lombards, and Anglo-Saxons. Their work combined Late Roman styles with new Germanic technology. Migration period artists were particularly famous for the technique of inlay. They used almandine, a burgundy variety of garnet, to add vibrant color. Designers would cover surfaces with tiny geometric shapes of stone or enamel. They polished these pieces until they were flush with the cloisonné settings. This process made the jewelry look like a tiny stained glass window.

Different cultures developed highly distinct brooch traditions across Europe. Celtic artisans in Ireland and Scotland were known for complex penannular and pseudo-penannular types. Their work is famous for its inventiveness and use of millefiori glass. One notable example is the Tara Brooch. In Scandinavia, the Viking Age produced art featuring intricate animal style ornamentation. This style used five sequential stages: Oseberg, Borre, Jellinge, Mammen, Ringerike, and Urnes. Scandinavian craftsmen often used silver or copper alloy to create shapes like trefoils or lozenges. They frequently decorated these pieces with interlaced gripping beasts or ribbon-shaped animals.

In Anglo-Saxon England, brooch styles evolved through several specific stages. Long brooches were common in the 5th and 6th centuries. By the middle of the 5th century, circular brooches began to appear. By the end of the 6th century, the circular form became the preferred type. The Anglo-Saxon era also saw the use of ansate brooches and safety-pin brooches. The safety-pin style became less common by the 7th century. By the 8th century, it had evolved into the strip brooch. During the middle to late Anglo-Saxon period, jewelled Kentish disc brooches were very popular.

The late medieval period, from 1300 to 1500 AD, introduced new shapes and meanings. People wore star-shaped, heart-shaped, and pentagonal brooches. Ring brooches were used to fasten clothing at the neck. These often featured simple inscriptions about love, friendship, or faith. Heart-shaped brooches were especially popular gifts between friends or lovers. This era also saw the rise of three-dimensional brooches. The Dunstable Swan Brooch is a famous example of this advanced craftsmanship. Some brooches even combined pagan and Christian symbols together.

The early modern period from 1500 to 1800 brought great changes to jewelry. Global exploration provided new sources of pearls, diamonds, and precious metals. The Renaissance era was a time of great opulence for the upper classes. Wealthy people wore elaborate brooches featuring emeralds, rubies, and amethysts. Later, the Neoclassical era focused on themes from ancient Greece and Rome. Unlike Renaissance jewelry, Neoclassical pieces were often made for the general public. A major innovation was the cameo, created using hard pastes like black basalt. Josiah Wedgwood was a key figure in producing these classical-style pieces.

Finally, the late modern era spanned from 1830 to 1945. This period included the Victorian, Art Nouveau, Edwardian, and Art deco styles. The Victorian era was named for Queen Victoria, who reigned from 1837 to 1901. Early Victorian fashion included lockets, flowers, and nature motifs. However, jewelry styles changed significantly after Prince Albert died in 1861. The Queen began wearing jewelry that reflected her period of mourning. Throughout all these eras, the brooch remained a vital way to express status, belief, and personal style.

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File:Wing Brooch MET DT108.jpg
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