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Dress

language culture Maturity 11-13 Next article →

A dress, sometimes called a frock or a gown, is a one-piece outer garment. It is worn on the torso and hangs down over the legs.

Van Eyck - Arnolfini PortraitFXD
Van Eyck - Arnolfini PortraitFXD

Most dresses consist of a bodice attached to a skirt. The bodice covers the upper body, while the skirt covers the lower body. Dresses vary greatly in their silhouettes, which are the outer shapes they create. They also differ in textiles, colors, sleeve lengths, and necklines. People choose specific styles based on fashion trends, weather, or personal taste. They may also choose dresses to meet standards of modesty.

To achieve specific shapes, people often use foundation garments. These are structural items worn underneath the dress to change its silhouette. For example, corsets can stiffen the bodice to flatten the chest. Panniers or farthingales can hold skirts out to the sides. A Spanish farthingale creates a silhouette that looks like two triangles.

Attributed to William Scrots (active 1537-53) - Elizabeth I when a Princess - RCIN 404444 - Royal Collection
Attributed to William Scrots (active 1537-53) - Elizabeth I when a Princess - RCIN 404444 - Royal Collection

Later, the wheel farthingale created a wider, more conical shape.

Anne of Denmark Gheeraerts
Anne of Denmark Gheeraerts

Other items like petticoats, bustles, and partlets help build these complex looks. These layers work together to create the desired fashion of the era.

Dress history shows a constant change in fit and decoration. In the 11th century, European women wore loose garments similar to men's tunics. These were worn over ankle-length chemises. As the century progressed, dresses became tighter using laces or buttons. By the 13th and 14th centuries, the cote-hardie became popular. This garment featured buttons down the front to fit the hips. It often included decorative cloth strips called tippets at the elbows.

Van Eyck - Arnolfini PortraitFXD
Van Eyck - Arnolfini PortraitFXD

The 15th and 16th centuries introduced more variety in structure. Women wore houppelandes, which were full-cut, floor-length dresses with high collars.

Dress MET 69.2.1 front CP4
Dress MET 69.2.1 front CP4

In the 16th century, decorative techniques like pinking and blackwork embroidery became common. The Tudor court in England influenced many styles during this time. Some women chose the rigid farthingale, while others wore a looser gown called a ropa. In Russia, dresses were used to show a person's social rank. This shows how clothing serves as a visual language for society.

During the 18th century, silhouettes became very large and triangular. Skirts were often supported by wide hoop underskirts.

Lacroix
Lacroix

In France, the robe à la française was a very popular style for upper-class women between 1740 and 1770. The 19th century brought even more classification. Dresses were sorted by the time of day or their specific purpose. For instance, a "day" bodice had a high neckline and long sleeves. An "evening" bodice featured a low neckline, known as a decollete, and short sleeves.

19th Century children's dresses (5795703358)
19th Century children's dresses (5795703358)

In the 1860s, metal hoopskirts called malakhovs were used in Russia.

The 20th century saw a massive shift toward practicality and ease of movement. In the Edwardian era, the "pigeon breast" look gave way to an S-shaped silhouette. By the 1910s, designers like Paul Poiret changed the look to a straighter silhouette.

Afternoon dress MET 49.46.17a-b front CP4
Afternoon dress MET 49.46.17a-b front CP4

During World War I, women working in factories preferred shorter dresses. This led to the popular 1920s styles, such as the flapper dress. These dresses were often short, straight, and could be pulled over the head. After World War II, Christian Dior's "New Look" became a major influence on fashion.

Today, dresses remain essential for many social functions. In Western cultures, they are often mandatory for formal dress codes. For a "white tie" event, women wear full-length evening gowns.

Dress MET 69.2.1 front CP4
Dress MET 69.2.1 front CP4

These gowns may even be paired with opera-length gloves. Dresses are also the standard attire for special celebrations like weddings or proms. Whether they are simple, dark-colored basic dresses or elaborate gowns, they continue to connect people to tradition and personal expression.

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🖼️ Images & Media (7)
File:Van Eyck - Arnolfini PortraitFXD.jpg
Van Eyck - Arnolfini PortraitFXD.jpg
File:Attributed to William Scrots (active 1537-53) - Elizabeth I when a Princess - RCIN 404444 - Royal Collection.jpg
Attributed to William Scrots (active...
File:Anne of Denmark Gheeraerts.jpg
Anne of Denmark Gheeraerts.jpg
File:Lacroix .jpg
Lacroix .jpg
File:Dress MET 69.2.1 front CP4.jpg
Dress MET 69.2.1 front CP4.jpg
File:19th Century children's dresses (5795703358).jpg
19th Century children's dresses (5795703358).jpg
File:Afternoon dress MET 49.46.17a-b front CP4.jpg
Afternoon dress MET 49.46.17a-b front CP4.jpg
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