Petticoat

A petticoat is a versatile article of clothing worn beneath a skirt or a dress.

While the term has changed over time, its primary functions remain consistent. People use petticoats to provide warmth or to create a specific shape for their outer garments. In some regions, these items are known as underskirts or slips. In the United States, a "half slip" is a common term for a lighter version. In British English, the word can describe a light, loose undergarment that hangs from the shoulders or the waist.

The construction and purpose of a petticoat depend heavily on the materials used. Most are crafted from cotton, silk, or tulle. The specific way a garment is worn dictates its name and structure. For example, a chemise is a garment that hangs from the shoulders. In contrast, modern American usage typically restricts the term "petticoat" to garments that hang from the waist. The thickness and volume of the fabric allow the wearer to achieve a desired silhouette. This is especially true for styles that require significant bulk to support heavy outer layers.

Historically, the petticoat was not always a hidden undergarment. In the 14th century, both men and women wore undercoats called "petticotes." The name originates from the Middle English term for a "small coat." By the 16th century, the practice of wearing them as undergarments was established in England. However, from the 16th to the 19th centuries, many petticoats were considered part of the exterior outfit. These were often made of matching or contrasting textiles. They could be simple or feature highly decorative embroidery.

Fashion trends throughout the 18th and 19th centuries caused the petticoat to change constantly. In the 18th century, petticoats were an integral part of a gown and were meant to be seen. Some even featured slits or holes so women could reach pockets located inside. As styles shifted in the early 19th century, dresses became narrower. This led to the use of "invisible petticoats." However, the popularity of the waltz in the 1820s revived full-skirted gowns.

During the Victorian era, petticoats were used to provide bulk. By the mid-19th century, they were often worn over hoops known as crinolines. In the 1870s, they developed flounces, or decorative ruffles, at the back to accommodate the bustle style.

Different cultures have developed their own unique versions of this garment. In South Asia, petticoats are often called inner skirts or inskirts. These are rarely shorter than ankle length and are always worn from the waist down. In Japan, a garment called a nagajuban serves a similar purpose under a kimono. The nagajuban resembles a shorter kimono and is often made of white silk. Historically, these were frequently made of red silk. To protect the garment, a half-collar called a han-eri is often sewn to the collar.

Fashion designers have frequently drawn inspiration from traditional petticoats. In 1953, the designer Sybil Connolly traveled to Connemara, Ireland. There, she observed a woman wearing a traditional red flannel petticoat. This sight inspired her first international fashion collection in New York. She purchased a bolt of the same flannel and created a quilted evening skirt. The skirt was a major success at her fashion show.

This demonstrates how a simple functional item can influence high fashion.

The term "petticoat" has also appeared in literature and political phrases. The term "petticoat government" has been used to describe women managing domestic or government affairs. Depending on the context, this phrase has been used positively or to imply a threat to male-led governance. For instance, the writer Washington Irving used the phrase in his 1819 work, "Rip Van Winkle." The term has appeared in various novels, such as those by Frances Trollope and Emma Orczy. It has even been used in film titles, ranging from comedies to political satires.