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Ice climbing

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Ice climbing is an exciting sport of ascending routes made of frozen water.

Ice climbing - Symphonie d'automne
Ice climbing - Symphonie d'automne

Climbers might scale a frozen waterfall or a large hanging icicle. They can also climb high alpine snow paths called couloirs. This activity is quite serious because ice can break or change.

Andreas på is
Andreas på is

When a person leads a climb, they must be very careful. Most climbers follow a rule that they must not fall. This is because the ice might not always hold firm.

Ice climbing - Symphonie d'automne
Ice climbing - Symphonie d'automne

To move up the ice, climbers use very specific tools. They use two ice tools, which are modern versions of ice axes.

Matériel d'escalade - studio WMCH - pioche Petzel
Matériel d'escalade - studio WMCH - pioche Petzel

They also wear crampons, which are metal spikes attached to their boots.

Klim crampons
Klim crampons

Some experts use fruit boots that have the spikes built into the sole. To stay safe, lead climbers use steel ice screws.

Ice screw
Ice screw

They screw these hollow metal tubes into the ice to create protection. A climber can also use a technique called an Abalakov thread. This involves making a hole in the ice to create a safety point.

This sport began as a part of alpine climbing. For a long time, climbers just climbed ice when they saw it on mountain paths. In the 1960s, climbers used pitons, but this was often unstable. Two big changes happened in the 1960s and 1970s.

Matériel d'escalade - studio WMCH - pioche Petzel
Matériel d'escalade - studio WMCH - pioche Petzel

Yvon Chouinard made the "Climax" ice axe with a curved pick. Then, Hamish MacInnes designed the "Terrordactyl" aluminum axe in 1970. These tools helped ice climbing become its own independent sport in the 1970s. These inventions led to more people climbing frozen waterfalls in the Alps and the Rockies.

Climbing difficulty is measured using a special grading system. Most ice routes are vertical and go up to a grade of WI6 or WI7.

Andreas på is
Andreas på is

WI7 is very rare and can be quite dangerous. In the 1980s, mixed climbing became popular by using rock and ice together.

Climbing in Alaska
Climbing in Alaska

This includes dry-tooling, where tools are used on bare rock. Since 2002, the UIAA has run official competitions. They host the Ice Climbing World Cup and the World Championships. These events include lead climbing on artificial walls and speed climbing on real ice.

Ice climbing connects to many other ways people climb mountains. It is a key skill for anyone practicing alpine climbing.

Climbing in Alaska
Climbing in Alaska

Some routes are so hard they require climbing on both rock and ice. These are called mixed climbing routes. At Helmcken Falls in Canada, the ice is very unique.

Angelika Rainer Helmcken Falls 3
Angelika Rainer Helmcken Falls 3

The waterfall creates huge, overhanging walls of ice. Climbers there have reached grades as high as WI13. This makes Helmcken Falls a very special place for the sport.

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🖼️ Images & Media (14)
File:Xaver Bongard in der Breitwangflue.jpg
Xaver Bongard in der Breitwangflue.jpg
File:Ice climbing - Symphonie d'automne.jpg
Ice climbing - Symphonie d'automne.jpg
File:Climbing in Alaska.JPG
Climbing in Alaska.JPG
File:UIAA Ice Climbing World Youth Championships 2016 05.jpg
UIAA Ice Climbing World Youth...
File:Matériel d'escalade - studio WMCH - pioche Petzel.jpg
Matériel d'escalade - studio WMCH -...
File:Klim crampons.jpg
Klim crampons.jpg
File:Ice screw.jpg
Ice screw.jpg
File:Eisklettern kl engstligenfall.jpg
Eisklettern kl engstligenfall.jpg
File:Pilsner Pillar.JPG
Pilsner Pillar.JPG
File:Ice Climbing on the Dryer Hose (bd71f8e3-e675-4a6b-bb6a-2e228d9038cb).JPG
Ice Climbing on the Dryer Hose...
File:Angelika Rainer Helmcken Falls 3.png
Angelika Rainer Helmcken Falls 3.png
File:Hee Yong Park and Hannarai Song on "Tequila Stuntman" in Chamonix 2.png
Hee Yong Park and Hannarai Song on...

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