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Flattop

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A flattop is a classic short hairstyle for men and boys. It features short hair on the sides and back of the head. The hair on the top is cut short and styled to stand upright. This creates a flat, level plane across the top of the head.

Gary Thompson
Gary Thompson

This style is recognized for its neat and precise appearance. It has remained a popular choice throughout the 20th century. Many people still choose this look today to express their personal style.

Barbers use specific techniques to achieve this geometric shape. Most of the cut is done with electric clippers. On the lower two-thirds of the sides and back, barbers use the direct contact clipper method. This involves using a detachable blade or a guard that is 1/4 inch or shorter. To create the signature look, barbers must "box in" the upper third of the sides. They do this using the clipper-over-comb method. The barber holds a vertically-oriented comb against the side of the head. They then run the clippers upward along the comb to prevent the hair from simply following the curve of the skull.

There are several ways the top of the hair can be shaped. The hair on top is often cut using clipper-over-comb or shears-over-comb techniques. Some barbers use a large 4-inch wide comb specifically for this purpose. Others use wide rotary clipper blades for freehand cutting. This freehand method allows the barber to adjust the flat deck to the wearer's preference. Once the main cut is finished, master barbers may perform a "scissor salute." This is when they use shears to remove any remaining stray hairs. This final step ensures the top is perfectly smooth.

Different versions of the flattop exist for various subcultures and groups. A variant called "flattop with fenders" features long sides. These sides are styled and slicked back into a shape called a ducktail. In the U.S. military, soldiers sometimes wear a "horseshoe flattop," also called a "shoe." This version is shaved to the skin from the back of the crown down the sides. It leaves only enough hair on top to form a horseshoe shape. Other counter-culture versions leave the top hair longer, tapering from two to three inches in the front.

When viewed from the front, the flattop can take on different appearances. The design of the upper sides determines how "boxy" the hair looks. Some styles feature boxy upper sides with sharp corners. Others have boxy sides with rounded corners. It is also possible to have rounded upper sides with either sharp or rounded corners. The final shape is often limited by the individual's skull shape. The density of the hair and the diameter of the hair shafts also play a role.

Sometimes, a small area of the scalp is visible through the hair at the center top. This is known as a "landing strip." The name is a metaphor for the flat deck of an aircraft carrier. Whether or not a wearer wants a landing strip is a common topic of discussion with a barber.

Maintaining this precise shape requires frequent maintenance. Because the hair is cut so short, it grows out of shape quickly. Most wearers need a haircut every two to three weeks. Some visit their barber weekly, often on Fridays. This has led to a phenomenon known as "Flattop Friday."

To keep the hair standing upright, various grooming products are used. The choice depends on hair texture and the desired level of shine or stiffness. People may use hair spray, mousse, gel, or cream. In the 1950s, a wax pomade known as "butch wax" was commonly used. Some individuals with very coarse hair textures can maintain the style without any product. However, most people use a blow dryer and styling products to "train" the hair. This style has been worn by many notable figures, including baseball player Roger Maris.

Maris Kennedy
Maris Kennedy
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