Crew cut

A crew cut is a specific type of short haircut characterized by hair that stands upright on the top of the head. This hair is graduated, meaning it changes in length across the scalp. It is longest at the front hairline, where it forms a short pompadour, also called a short pomp. The hair becomes progressively shorter as it moves toward the back of the crown. In a side profile, the outline of this top hair approaches a horizontal line. This style is often chosen by men who want a low-maintenance look. It is also frequently used as a summer haircut to provide a cooling effect.

Barbers use a specific sequence of steps to design a crew cut. They begin with edging, siding, and topping. Edging and siding together create a taper on the sides and back of the head. This taper is usually cut to a short, semi-short, or medium length. To shape the top, a barber may use a method called shears over comb. In this process, a comb is inserted into the upright hair to set the desired length. The barber then uses clippers or shears to sever the hair just above the teeth of the comb. Another method is called freehand cutting. In freehand cutting, the barber does not use a comb or a guard to set the length. Instead, the distance the clipper blade is held from the scalp determines how much hair is cut.

There are several distinct variations of this haircut. A very short version, where the top hair is cut to a uniform length, is sometimes called a butch cut. A longer version of the style is known in the United States as an Ivy League or Ivy League crew cut. Another major variation is the flat top crew cut, often just called a flattop. In this version, the hair on top is graduated to create a flat plane. This plane can be level, upward sloping, or downward sloping relative to the forehead. All of these styles, including the butch and Ivy League, can be categorized as types of buzz cuts.

The history of this style reaches back to at least the mid-18th century. Before it was called a crew cut, the style was known as a pompadour or a brush cut. Different cultures used their own names for the look. In French, it is called coupe à la brosse, which means "cut like a brush." In German, the term is Bürstenschnitt. In Russian, the style is called ёжик, meaning "hedgehog." Before 1921, barbers found the short pompadour to be one of the most time-consuming styles to trim. This was because electric clippers with motors in the handle had not yet been invented. The widespread use of motorized clippers changed how quickly these precise styles could be created.

The term "crew cut" likely originated from university rowing teams. These teams include members from Harvard, Yale, Princeton, and Cornell. Rowers need short hair so it does not blow into their faces during a race. Because rowers hold oars with both hands, they cannot easily brush hair out of their eyes. This style stood in contrast to the long hair worn by football players. In 1889, Princeton football players began wearing long hair to protect against head injuries. However, in 1895, the Yale football championship team appeared with close-cropped heads. This shift helped long hair go out of style for football and coincided with the appearance of the first helmets.

The popularity of the crew cut has shifted through many decades. It was especially popular among college students in the Ivy League during the 1920s and 1930s. During World War II, many men received G.I. haircuts, which included the crew cut. A significant proportion of these men continued to wear the style as civilians after the war. As long hair became the popular trend in the mid-1960s, the crew cut lost its popularity. It continued to wane through the 1970s. However, the style began to return in the late 1970s and early 1980s. During the 1980s, the flat top crew cut was the most popular version of the style.

When a barber designs a crew cut, they must consider the individual's physical features. The final shape of the top hair is chosen to complement the person's face shape and skull shape. The barber also looks at the frontal hairline and other facial features. For example, the short pomp at the front can be made higher, lower, wider, or narrower. It can also be arched or flattened across the forehead. The upper sides can be given more or less volume depending on the customer's instructions. This allows the haircut to be customized to fit different head shapes, such as a widow's peak.