Cashmere wool

Cashmere is a premium natural fiber obtained from specific goat breeds.

These include pashmina goats and other breeds like the Hircus Blythi Goat. The fiber is highly valued for its extreme softness and warmth. It is also a hygroscopic fiber. This means it can absorb and release water from the surrounding air. This unique property helps regulate body temperature in both warm and cool environments.

Because of these qualities, cashmere is used to create high-quality textiles and luxury clothing.

Goats produce a double fleece consisting of two distinct layers. The first layer is a fine, soft undercoat known as underdown. This undercoat grows during the winter to keep the animal warm. The second layer is a straighter, coarser outer coating called guard hair. To create wearable textiles, the undercoat must undergo a process called de-hairing. This mechanical process separates the soft underdown from the coarse guard hair. De-hairing can be done more efficiently by removing the undercoat by hand. While this takes more time, it produces a much higher quality fiber.

There are several ways to collect this valuable wool. During the spring moulting season, goats naturally shed their winter coats. In the Northern Hemisphere, this happens between March and May. In some regions, workers use a coarse comb to pull tufts of fiber from the animal. This combing method is popular in the United States. It can take up to two weeks, though a trained eye might finish in one week. Combing results in a higher yield of pure cashmere than shearing. In contrast, countries like Australia and Iran often shear the entire fleece. This method is faster but results in a higher coarse hair content.

The history of cashmere is rich with ancient traditions and legends.

It has been manufactured in Mongolia, Nepal, and Kashmir for thousands of years. In Kashmir, many believe the industry began in the 15th century. One tradition credits the ruler Zain-ul-Abidin with bringing weavers from Turkestan. Another story tells of the saint Mir Sayyid Ali Hamadani. He reportedly brought 700 craftsmen from Persia to the region. Legend says he discovered the warmth of Ladakh goat wool after making socks by hand. These stories highlight the deep cultural importance of the craft.

Global production of cashmere is concentrated in specific regions.

As of 2016, China was the largest producer of raw cashmere. It produced an estimated 19,200 metric tons of hair per year. Mongolia was the second largest producer with 8,900 tons. Afghanistan holds the third rank in production. The total annual world raw production is estimated between 15,000 and 20,000 tons. However, pure cashmere is much rarer. After removing dirt, grease, and coarse hairs, the pure yield is only about 6,500 tons. This rarity contributes to the high cost of the material.

In the United States, strict laws protect the integrity of cashmere products. The U.S. Wool Products Labeling Act of 1939 sets specific standards. To be labeled as cashmere, the fiber must be the fine dehaired undercoat. The average diameter of the fiber cannot exceed 19 microns. Additionally, no more than 3 percent of the fibers can exceed 30 microns by weight. These rules prevent companies from selling low-quality items as true cashmere. This ensures that consumers receive the soft, high-quality material they expect.

Cashmere has significant connections to global trade and environmental issues. In the 19th century, cashmere shawls became a sensation in Europe. This drove interest in manufacturing the product in France and Scotland. Today, the luxury cashmere market is expected to reach US$4.2 billion by 2025. However, the industry faces serious environmental challenges. Overgrazing to increase production has led to the loss of grasslands in Asia. This process transforms grasslands into deserts. This change increases local temperatures and creates air pollution. This pollution has been documented as far away as Canada and the United States.