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Broad Peak

geography Maturity 7-9 Next article →

Broad Peak is one of the world's most significant mountains. It is classified as an eight-thousander. This term refers to mountains that rise above 8,000 meters in elevation. Specifically, Broad Peak is the 12th highest mountain on Earth. It is located within the Karakoram range. This mountain range spans across Gilgit-Baltistan in Pakistan and Xinjiang in China. Broad Peak sits on the border between these two countries. It is part of a larger group of peaks known as the Gasherbrum massif. It is situated near the famous peak K2.

The mountain's name is a direct description of its physical shape. The summit is unusually long. It extends over 1.5 kilometers in length. This wide top gives the mountain its "broad" appearance. Broad Peak is actually a complex of five different summits. Three of these summits are eight-thousanders. These include Broad Peak itself at 8,051 meters. The Rocky Summit reaches 8,028 meters. Broad Peak Central reaches 8,011 meters. The other two summits are lower. They are Broad Peak North at 7,490 meters and Kharut Kangri at 6,942 meters.

The name "Broad Peak" was introduced by a British explorer. Martin Conway named it in 1892. He chose this name because it reminded him of a mountain in the Alps called Breithorn. While the name is common in English, it is different from local names. The literal translation to the local language is Falchan Kangri. However, the Balti people do not typically use that name. The mountain remains a landmark for the people living in the Baltistan region.

Climbing history began with a successful Austrian expedition in 1957. The team included Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger, and Hermann Buhl. They reached the summit between June 8 and June 9. This team was led by Marcus Schmuck. They chose a difficult path called the West Spur. Notably, they did not use supplemental oxygen to help them breathe. They also climbed without high-altitude porters or base camp support. They had previously attempted the mountain on May 29. On that date, Wintersteller and Diemberger reached the forepeak at 8,030 meters.

Many climbers have since pushed the limits of what is possible on Broad Peak. In 1984, Krzysztof Wielicki achieved a major milestone. He completed a solo ascent in only 21.5 hours. This was the first one-day ascent of any 8,000-meter peak. In 2013, a Polish expedition achieved the first winter ascent. This team included Maciej Berbeka, Adam Bielecki, Tomasz Kowalski, and Artur Małek. They reached the peak on March 5 without using oxygen. This was the twelfth eight-thousander to be climbed in winter. It was also the tenth eight-thousander first climbed in winter by Polish climbers.

Extreme feats have also occurred in the air and through solo efforts. In 2016, Antoine Girard performed a unique flight. He flew a paraglider over the summit of Broad Peak. This was the first time a paraglider flew above an 8,000-meter summit. In 2008, Élisabeth Revol completed solo ascents of Broad Peak and two Gasherbrum peaks. She did this within 16 days without supplemental oxygen. In 1994, Carlos Carsolio established a new solo route. This path is now known as Route Carsolio. These achievements show the variety of ways people interact with the mountain.

Broad Peak also holds records for age and speed. In 2019, Shehroze Kashif became a notable climber. He was only 17 years old when he reached the summit. He is the youngest person ever to summit this peak. He is also the youngest Pakistani to reach that altitude. Other climbers use the mountain for massive challenges. Nirmal Purja climbed Broad Peak as part of a record-breaking expedition. He aimed to climb all 14 peaks over 8,000 meters in less than seven months. He even returned in 2023 to climb the peaks using supplemental oxygen.

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