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Pattern (sewing)

language culture Maturity 11-13 Next article →

In the world of fashion design, a pattern serves as a vital template. It provides the precise shapes required to create a garment. Designers trace these shapes onto woven or knitted fabric. Once traced, the fabric is cut and assembled into clothing. Most patterns are made of paper. However, professionals often use sturdier materials like paperboard or cardboard. These robust materials allow for repeated use without wearing out. The specialized work of creating these templates is called patternmaking.

Sewing pattern
Sewing pattern

A patternmaker typically uses one of two primary methods. The first is the flat-pattern method. In this approach, the maker drafts the entire pattern on a flat surface. They use tools like rulers, curves, and straight-edges to ensure accuracy. Specialized tools like a notcher, drill, or awl are used to mark the paper. This method is the most common way to create menswear.

Pattern tracing in a sewing class crop
Pattern tracing in a sewing class crop

The second method is known as draping. This involves creating a mock-up pattern using a strong fabric. Designers often use calico, which is a linen weave. Calico is coarser than muslin but less thick than denim. Because it is unfinished and undyed, it remains very inexpensive. The designer pins this fabric directly onto a dress form. They then transfer the fabric's outline and markings onto a paper pattern. Draping is essential for sculpted evening gowns or complex collars.

Fitting muslin dummy
Fitting muslin dummy

To begin the process, makers often create a sloper, also called a block pattern. A sloper is a basic, custom-fitted pattern without style details. For women, this usually includes a jewel-neck bodice and a narrow skirt. For men, it includes an upper sloper and a pants sloper. Makers refine these shapes by sewing mock-up garments called toiles or muslins. These test garments help ensure the fit is perfect before the final version is made. Once a sloper is perfected, it serves as the foundation for many different styles. You can use it to develop various necklines, sleeves, or dart placements.

Basting pattern markings
Basting pattern markings

Once a pattern is designed, it must be resized for different people. This process is called pattern grading. Grading uses specific rules to shrink or enlarge a finished pattern. This allows a single design to fit many different body sizes. In commercial manufacturing, makers use CAD software, or computer-aided design, to assist with grading. This ensures that a size Small and a size Large maintain the correct proportions.

Grading a smaller waistband
Grading a smaller waistband

Patterns also contain important symbols to guide the sewing process. Notches are used to indicate seam allowances or zipper placement. They also mark fold points for hems and matched points for long seams. Circular holes might indicate a dart apex or buttonhole placement. A long arrow is used to show the grainline. This tells the maker how to align the pattern with the fabric's grain. These symbols act like a map for the person assembling the garment.

Vintage sewing pattern pieces
Vintage sewing pattern pieces

In large-scale clothing manufacture, the process becomes highly organized. Industrial patterns are often cut from oak tag paper. These are checked for accuracy and then fit-tested using sample fabrics. After approval, the pattern is graded into a set of sizes. Designers then create a marker. A marker is an arrangement of all pattern pieces on a piece of fabric. The goal of a marker is to minimize fabric waste. This "pattern of patterns" is then laid over layers of fabric and cut.

Bundesarchiv Bild 183-1987-0310-011, Rostock, Zuschnitt per Mikroelektronik
Bundesarchiv Bild 183-1987-0310-011, Rostock, Zuschnitt per Mikroelektronik

Modern technology has introduced even more advanced ways to work. Many patternmakers now digitize their paper patterns for archiving. They use scanners or camera systems to create digital files. Some designers use parametric pattern drafting. This method uses computer algorithms to draft patterns from scratch. The software uses measurements, variables, and geometric objects to create the shapes. This allows for incredible precision in every size.

Valentina pattern making software - screenshot
Valentina pattern making software - screenshot
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🖼️ Images & Media (14)
File:A-shirt model SUBTJEMIZ.svg
A-shirt model SUBTJEMIZ.svg
File:Emojione 1F458.svg
Emojione 1F458.svg
File:Fashion students 2016-15 (25792353403).jpg
Fashion students 2016-15 (25792353403).jpg
File:Basting pattern markings.jpg
Basting pattern markings.jpg
File:Grading a smaller waistband.jpg
Grading a smaller waistband.jpg
File:Fitting muslin dummy.jpg
Fitting muslin dummy.jpg
File:Vintage sewing pattern pieces.jpg
Vintage sewing pattern pieces.jpg
File:Sewing pattern.jpg
Sewing pattern.jpg
File:Tracing pattern sewing.jpg
Tracing pattern sewing.jpg
File:Valentina pattern making software - screenshot.png
Valentina pattern making software - screenshot.png
File:Grevenstein, Aachen, Mode in Pelz & Leder (09).jpg
Grevenstein, Aachen, Mode in Pelz & Leder (09).jpg
File:Bundesarchiv Bild 183-1987-0310-011, Rostock, Zuschnitt per Mikroelektronik.jpg
Bundesarchiv Bild 183-1987-0310-011,...

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