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Orry-Kelly

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Orry-Kelly was a highly influential Hollywood costume designer.

Dolores Del Rio-I Live For Life-2
Dolores Del Rio-I Live For Life-2

He was a master of visual storytelling through clothing. His work helped define the aesthetic of the Golden Age of Hollywood. He won three Academy Awards for Best Costume Design. He was also nominated for a fourth award for the film Gypsy. Until 2014, he held the record as the most prolific Australian-born Oscar winner. His career spanned many of the most famous films in cinema history.

His design process often involved a specialized technique called "designing for distraction." This method allowed him to compensate for difficult figure shapes. He used clothing to direct the viewer's eye where he wanted it to go. For example, when working with actress Kay Francis, he used clothing to signal character traits. He might dress a manipulative femme fatale in frills. Conversely, he would dress an honest heroine in a classic, tailored suit. This approach helped clarify the role of the character through their wardrobe.

Orry-Kelly's talent extended to diverse and complex character types. In the film Some Like It Hot, he created clothes for cross-dressing characters. He designed outfits for Tony Curtis and Jack Lemmon playing women. His skill was so precise that the actors were not spotted as men in ladies' rooms. He also worked with many legendary actresses. These included Bette Davis, Marilyn Monroe, and Katharine Hepburn. He even draped Dolores del Río in white jersey. He noted that the result made her look like a Greek goddess.

Dolores Del Rio-I Live For Life-2
Dolores Del Rio-I Live For Life-2

His professional journey began in Kiama, New South Wales, Australia. He was born there as Jack Kelly on December 31, 1897. His father, William Kelly, was a gentleman tailor from the Isle of Man. This background in tailoring likely influenced his interest in garment construction. At age 17, he moved to Sydney to study banking. However, his passion shifted toward the theatre. He eventually moved to New York City to pursue acting. During this time, he shared an apartment in Greenwich Village with Cary Grant.

His career in the film industry took off after he moved to Hollywood in 1932. He was initially hired by Warner Bros. as their chief costume designer. He remained in that position until 1944. To appear more exotic for film credits, he was encouraged to hyphenate his name. Later, his designs appeared at several major studios. These included Universal, RKO, 20th Century Fox, and MGM. He also served in the United States Army Air Corps during World War II. He was later discharged due to alcohol problems.

Orry-Kelly's filmography includes many movies now considered classics.

Casablanca, Trailer Screenshot 2
Casablanca, Trailer Screenshot 2

He designed the elegant clothing for Ingrid Bergman in Casablanca. These garments have been described by critics as "pitch perfect." He also worked on films such as 42nd Street, The Maltese Falcon, and Oklahoma!. His Academy Award-winning films include An American in Paris, Les Girls, and Some Like It Hot.

Nina Foch in An American in Paris trailer
Nina Foch in An American in Paris trailer

His work helped create the visual identity of these legendary productions.

Beyond the film set, Orry-Kelly was a multifaceted artist. He worked as a portrait artist and took private commissions. He designed both custom gowns and ready-to-wear dresses. During World War II, he wrote a fashion column called "Hollywood Fashion Parade." This column was published by the International News Service. His life and legacy were highlighted in a 2015 documentary titled Women He's Undressed. This film helped bring his memoirs, Women I've Undressed, to public attention. His Oscars were even featured in an exhibition at the Australian Centre for the Moving Image.

Orry-Kelly died of liver cancer in Hollywood in 1964 at age 66. His funeral was attended by many prominent figures in the film industry. His pallbearers included Cary Grant, Tony Curtis, Billy Wilder, and George Cukor. The eulogy was read by Jack L. Warner. Although he had no living relatives, his legacy was preserved by his friends. His personal effects and Academy Awards were kept by Ann Warner. She was the wife of his former boss, Jack Warner. His impact on the art of costume design remains significant today.

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Dolores Del Rio-I Live For Life-2.JPG
File:Casablanca, Trailer Screenshot 2.JPG
Casablanca, Trailer Screenshot 2.JPG
File:Nina Foch in An American in Paris trailer.jpg
Nina Foch in An American in Paris trailer.jpg
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