A regular wave model separates particle motion from the motion of a crest. Real waves can cause some net drift, and currents transport water as well. Near shore, changing depth alters particle paths and waves may break. The animation uses a deep-water, non-breaking wave to make the distinction clear.
Water and oceans · Discover & try
Does a wave carry the same water across the ocean?
Reading level 5 of 5 · AdvancedChange
Word help
crest
The highest part of a wave.
trough
The lowest part of a wave.
wavelength
The spacing between successive crests.
drift
An overall movement added to a particle's back-and-forth motion.
Watch · Try · Explain
See how it works
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Deep-water wave model; currents, breaking, and net drift omitted.
What to look for
- A crest moving along the surface
- The marked particle's local looping path
- Wave height compared with wavelength
Explain what you noticed
What does the marked particle show in this model?
Keep this idea: Wave patterns travel; particles mainly move locally.
Follow the sources
- NOAA National Ocean Service — Why does the ocean have waves?
- NOAA — JetStream Max: Anatomy of a Wave
- NOAA — Waves
Source material checked 2026-10-28. Explanations and activities by Nepedia. Agency source links do not imply endorsement.
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