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Water and oceans · Discover & try

Does a wave carry the same water across the ocean?

Reading level 3 of 5 · IndependentChange
1 · Shorter sentences5 · More detail

The high point of a wave is its crest, and the low point is its trough. Wavelength is the distance between neighbouring crests. Follow one water marker: its looping movement differs from the forward movement of the wave's shape.

Word help
crest

The highest part of a wave.

trough

The lowest part of a wave.

wavelength

The spacing between successive crests.

drift

An overall movement added to a particle's back-and-forth motion.

Watch · Try · Explain

See how it works

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Deep-water wave model; currents, breaking, and net drift omitted.

What to look for
  • A crest moving along the surface
  • The marked particle's local looping path
  • Wave height compared with wavelength
Explain what you noticed

What does the marked particle show in this model?

Keep this idea: Wave patterns travel; particles mainly move locally.

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Why does the sea rise and fall?

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