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Water and oceans · Discover & try

Does a wave carry the same water across the ocean?

Reading level 4 of 5 · FluentChange
1 · Shorter sentences5 · More detail

In deep-water surface waves, particles move along nearly circular paths, with motion becoming smaller below the surface. The pattern passes energy from place to place while particles remain near their starting region. Real paths are not perfectly closed, so this does not mean water can never drift forward.

Word help
crest

The highest part of a wave.

trough

The lowest part of a wave.

wavelength

The spacing between successive crests.

drift

An overall movement added to a particle's back-and-forth motion.

Watch · Try · Explain

See how it works

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Deep-water wave model; currents, breaking, and net drift omitted.

What to look for
  • A crest moving along the surface
  • The marked particle's local looping path
  • Wave height compared with wavelength
Explain what you noticed

What does the marked particle show in this model?

Keep this idea: Wave patterns travel; particles mainly move locally.

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Why does the sea rise and fall?

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