6–8 hours

Prepare the starter: keep only 100 g of ripe, active starter and mix in the flour and water listed for this feed. Aim for 26–27°C just after mixing, then cover and leave at room temperature. This prepared starter is the levain used later in the dough.

Ready when: The starter has grown, is bubbly and shows fine stretchy strands inside, with a pleasant fermented smell.

20–30 minutes

As the prepared starter nears readiness, mix only the flour and water listed for the final dough. Cover and let it rest, keeping the salt, yeast and prepared starter separate for now.

Ready when: All the flour is wet, with no dry patches.

3–6 minutes

Add the remaining group B ingredients to the rested dough, then wet your hand and fold the outer edges over them. Pinch through the dough with your thumb and forefinger 5–6 times, alternating with folds until evenly mixed, about 3–6 minutes. Rest briefly, fold again and aim for a dough temperature of 25–26°C.

Ready when: The dough looks even, with no streaks of starter or salt.

3–4 folding rounds in first 1½–2 h; total first rise about 5 hours

Wet your hand, lift one edge of the dough just until it resists, then fold it across; work around 4–5 sides and turn the dough folded-side down. Keep it covered and let it relax between rounds of folding. Avoid tearing the dough, and leave it untouched for the last hour of this first rise.

Ready when: About 2½× its starting size, airy and stretchy.

After the first rise

Gently tip the dough onto a lightly floured counter and divide it equally. Fold each piece’s edges into the middle, turn the folded side down onto a patch without flour, then cup and gently pull it toward you while turning until the surface is firm without tearing. Put the rounds folded-side DOWN in floured rising baskets and cover, keeping as much air in the dough as possible.

Ready when: Moderately firm rounds that still have air bubbles inside.

12–14 hours

Put the covered rising baskets in closed bags and refrigerate overnight. Bake the loaves straight from the fridge; they do not need to warm up first.

Ready when: The loaves have grown and feel airy, but are firm enough to lift while cold.

At least 45 minutes, overlapping the last rise

Put the heavy lidded pots on the middle rack. Heat the oven and pots thoroughly to 245°C.

Ready when: The oven and pot are fully hot.

30 min covered + about 20 min uncovered

Turn each loaf out onto a lightly floured counter and carefully lower it folded-side UP into a hot pot. Bake with the lid on for 30 minutes, then remove the lid to finish baking. Use dry oven mitts and keep your hands clear of the hot metal.

Ready when: A deep brown crust; start checking 15 min after removing the lid.

At least 20 minutes; longer for cleaner slices

Take the loaves out of the pots and leave them on a rack to cool before slicing.

Ready when: Most steam has escaped and the inside no longer tears when sliced.

7–9 hours

Prepare the starter: keep only 100 g of ripe, active starter and mix in the flour and water listed for this feed. Aim for 26–27°C just after mixing, then cover and leave at room temperature. This prepared starter is the levain used later in the dough.

Ready when: The starter has grown, is bubbly and shows fine stretchy strands inside, with a pleasant fermented smell.

20–30 minutes

As the prepared starter nears readiness, mix only the flour and water listed for the final dough. Cover and let it rest, keeping the salt, yeast and prepared starter separate for now.

Ready when: All the flour is wet, with no dry patches.

3–6 minutes

Add the remaining group B ingredients to the rested dough, then wet your hand and fold the outer edges over them. Pinch through the dough with your thumb and forefinger 5–6 times, alternating with folds until evenly mixed, about 3–6 minutes. Rest briefly, fold again and aim for a dough temperature of 25–26°C.

Ready when: The dough looks even, with no streaks of starter or salt.

3–4 folding rounds before bed; total first rise 12–15 h

Wet your hand, lift one edge just until it resists and fold it across; repeat around 4–5 sides, then turn the dough folded-side down without tearing it. Cover and let it relax between folding rounds, leaving it untouched for the last hour of this first rise. This slowly rising dough can have its last fold later in the evening.

Ready when: Nearly 3× its starting size, though it may rise less in a cool kitchen.

After the first rise

Gently tip the dough onto a lightly floured counter and divide it equally. Fold each piece’s edges into the middle, turn the folded side down onto a patch without flour, then cup and gently pull it toward you while turning until the surface is firm without tearing. Put the rounds folded-side DOWN in floured rising baskets and cover, keeping as much air in the dough as possible.

Ready when: Moderately firm rounds that still have air bubbles inside.

about 4 hours

Let the covered loaves rise at about 21°C. Gently press a loaf with a floured fingertip to make a small dent: it is ready when the dent slowly rises partway back and leaves a slight mark.

Ready when: A finger dent slowly rises partway back, and the loaf feels airy.

At least 45 minutes, overlapping the last rise

Put the heavy lidded pots on the middle rack. Heat the oven and pots thoroughly to 245°C.

Ready when: The oven and pot are fully hot.

30 min covered + 20–25 min uncovered

Turn each loaf out onto a lightly floured counter and carefully lower it folded-side UP into a hot pot. Bake with the lid on for 30 minutes, then remove the lid to finish baking. Use dry oven mitts and keep your hands clear of the hot metal.

Ready when: A deep brown crust; start checking 15 min after removing the lid.

At least 20 minutes; longer for cleaner slices

Take the loaves out of the pots and leave them on a rack to cool before slicing.

Ready when: Most steam has escaped and the inside no longer tears when sliced.

7–9 hours

Prepare the starter: keep only 100 g of ripe, active starter and mix in the flour and water listed for this feed. Aim for 26–27°C just after mixing, then cover and leave at room temperature. This prepared starter is the levain used later in the dough.

Ready when: The starter has grown, is bubbly and shows fine stretchy strands inside, with a pleasant fermented smell.

20–30 minutes

As the prepared starter nears readiness, mix only the flour and water listed for the final dough. Cover and let it rest, keeping the salt, yeast and prepared starter separate for now.

Ready when: All the flour is wet, with no dry patches.

3–6 minutes

Add the remaining group B ingredients to the rested dough, then wet your hand and fold the outer edges over them. Pinch through the dough with your thumb and forefinger 5–6 times, alternating with folds until evenly mixed, about 3–6 minutes. Rest briefly, fold again and aim for a dough temperature of 25–26°C.

Ready when: The dough looks even, with no streaks of starter or salt.

3–4 folding rounds before bed; total first rise 12–15 h

Wet your hand, lift one edge just until it resists and fold it across; repeat around 4–5 sides, then turn the dough folded-side down without tearing it. Cover and let it relax between folding rounds, leaving it untouched for the last hour of this first rise. This slowly rising dough can have its last fold later in the evening.

Ready when: Nearly 3× its starting size, though it may rise less in a cool kitchen.

After the first rise

Gently tip the dough onto a lightly floured counter and divide it equally. Fold each piece’s edges into the middle, turn the folded side down onto a patch without flour, then cup and gently pull it toward you while turning until the surface is firm without tearing. Put the rounds folded-side DOWN in floured rising baskets and cover, keeping as much air in the dough as possible.

Ready when: Moderately firm rounds that still have air bubbles inside.

about 4 hours

Let the covered loaves rise at about 21°C. Gently press a loaf with a floured fingertip to make a small dent: it is ready when the dent slowly rises partway back and leaves a slight mark.

Ready when: A finger dent slowly rises partway back, and the loaf feels airy.

At least 45 minutes, overlapping the last rise

Put the heavy lidded pots on the middle rack. Heat the oven and pots thoroughly to 245°C.

Ready when: The oven and pot are fully hot.

30 min covered + 20–25 min uncovered

Turn each loaf out onto a lightly floured counter and carefully lower it folded-side UP into a hot pot. Bake with the lid on for 30 minutes, then remove the lid to finish baking. Use dry oven mitts and keep your hands clear of the hot metal.

Ready when: A deep brown crust; start checking 15 min after removing the lid.

At least 20 minutes; longer for cleaner slices

Take the loaves out of the pots and leave them on a rack to cool before slicing.

Ready when: Most steam has escaped and the inside no longer tears when sliced.

6–8 hours

Prepare the starter: keep only 100 g of ripe, active starter and mix in the flour and water listed for this feed. Aim for 26–27°C just after mixing, then cover and leave at room temperature. This prepared starter is the levain used later in the dough.

Ready when: The starter has grown, is bubbly and shows fine stretchy strands inside, with a pleasant fermented smell.

20–30 minutes

As the prepared starter nears readiness, mix only the flour and water listed for the final dough. Cover and let it rest, keeping the salt, yeast and prepared starter separate for now.

Ready when: All the flour is wet, with no dry patches.

3–6 minutes

Add the remaining group B ingredients to the rested dough, then wet your hand and fold the outer edges over them. Pinch through the dough with your thumb and forefinger 5–6 times, alternating with folds until evenly mixed, about 3–6 minutes. Rest briefly, fold again and aim for a dough temperature of 25–26°C.

Ready when: The dough looks even, with no streaks of starter or salt.

2–3 folding rounds in first 1½–2 h; total first rise about 5 hours

Wet your hand, lift one edge of the dough just until it resists, then fold it across; work around 4–5 sides and turn the dough folded-side down. Keep it covered and let it relax between rounds of folding. Avoid tearing the dough, and leave it untouched for the last hour of this first rise.

Ready when: About 2½× its starting size, airy and stretchy.

After the first rise

Gently tip the dough onto a lightly floured counter and divide it equally. Fold each piece’s edges into the middle, turn the folded side down onto a patch without flour, then cup and gently pull it toward you while turning until the surface is firm without tearing. Put the rounds folded-side DOWN in floured rising baskets and cover, keeping as much air in the dough as possible.

Ready when: Moderately firm rounds that still have air bubbles inside.

12–13 hours

Put the covered rising baskets in closed bags and refrigerate overnight. Bake the loaves straight from the fridge; they do not need to warm up first.

Ready when: The loaves have grown and feel airy, but are firm enough to lift while cold.

At least 45 minutes, overlapping the last rise

Put the heavy lidded pots on the middle rack. Heat the oven and pots thoroughly to 245°C.

Ready when: The oven and pot are fully hot.

30 min covered + about 20 min uncovered

Turn each loaf out onto a lightly floured counter and carefully lower it folded-side UP into a hot pot. Bake with the lid on for 30 minutes, then remove the lid to finish baking. Use dry oven mitts and keep your hands clear of the hot metal.

Ready when: A deep brown crust; start checking 15 min after removing the lid.

At least 20 minutes; longer for cleaner slices

Take the loaves out of the pots and leave them on a rack to cool before slicing.

Ready when: Most steam has escaped and the inside no longer tears when sliced.

6–8 hours

Prepare the starter: keep only 100 g of ripe, active starter and mix in the flour and water listed for this feed. Aim for 26–27°C just after mixing, then cover and leave at room temperature. This prepared starter is the levain used later in the dough.

Ready when: The starter has grown, is bubbly and shows fine stretchy strands inside, with a pleasant fermented smell.

20–30 minutes

Mix the flour and water listed for the final dough with the 30 g wheat germ. Cover and let it rest, keeping the salt, yeast and prepared starter separate for now.

Ready when: All the flour is wet, with no dry patches.

3–6 minutes

Add the remaining group B ingredients to the rested dough, then wet your hand and fold the outer edges over them. Pinch through the dough with your thumb and forefinger 5–6 times, alternating with folds until evenly mixed, about 3–6 minutes. Rest briefly, fold again and aim for a dough temperature of 25–26°C.

Ready when: The dough looks even, with no streaks of starter or salt.

3–4 folding rounds in first 1½–2 h; total first rise about 5 hours

Wet your hand, lift one edge of the dough just until it resists, then fold it across; work around 4–5 sides and turn the dough folded-side down. Keep it covered and let it relax between rounds of folding. Avoid tearing the dough, and leave it untouched for the last hour of this first rise.

Ready when: About 2½× its starting size, airy and stretchy.

After the first rise

Gently tip the dough onto a lightly floured counter and divide it equally. Fold each piece’s edges into the middle, turn folded-side down onto a patch without flour, then cup and gently pull it toward you while turning until the surface is firm without tearing. Sprinkle 10 g bran into each lightly floured rising basket, put the loaves in folded-side DOWN and cover.

Ready when: Moderately firm rounds that still have air bubbles inside.

12–14 hours

Put the covered rising baskets in closed bags and refrigerate overnight. Bake the loaves straight from the fridge; they do not need to warm up first.

Ready when: The loaves have grown and feel airy, but are firm enough to lift while cold.

At least 45 minutes, overlapping the last rise

Put the heavy lidded pots on the middle rack. Heat the oven and pots thoroughly to 245°C.

Ready when: The oven and pot are fully hot.

30 min covered + about 20 min uncovered

Turn each loaf out onto a lightly floured counter and carefully lower it folded-side UP into a hot pot. Bake with the lid on for 30 minutes, then remove the lid to finish baking. Use dry oven mitts and keep your hands clear of the hot metal.

Ready when: A deep brown crust; start checking 15 min after removing the lid.

At least 20 minutes; longer for cleaner slices

Take the loaves out of the pots and leave them on a rack to cool before slicing.

Ready when: Most steam has escaped and the inside no longer tears when sliced.

6–8 hours

Prepare the starter: keep only 100 g of ripe, active starter and mix in the flour and water listed for this feed. Aim for 26–27°C just after mixing, then cover and leave at room temperature. This prepared starter is the levain used later in the dough.

Ready when: The starter has grown, is bubbly and shows fine stretchy strands inside, with a pleasant fermented smell.

About 12 minutes; start ≥1 h before autolyse

Roast the walnuts at 205°C. Let them cool completely before mixing the dough.

Ready when: The walnuts smell toasted and are browned, without burnt edges or bitterness.

20–30 minutes

As the prepared starter nears readiness, mix only the flour and water listed for the final dough. Cover and let it rest, keeping the salt, yeast and prepared starter separate for now.

Ready when: All the flour is wet, with no dry patches.

3–6 minutes

Add the remaining group B ingredients to the rested dough, then wet your hand and fold the outer edges over them. Pinch through the dough with your thumb and forefinger 5–6 times, alternating with folds until evenly mixed, about 3–6 minutes. Rest briefly, fold again and aim for a dough temperature of 25–26°C.

Ready when: The dough looks even, with no streaks of starter or salt.

10-minute rest, then incorporate

Let the mixed dough rest for 10 minutes. Scatter the cooled walnuts over it, then gently pinch through and fold the dough until the nuts are spread throughout.

Ready when: The nuts are spread evenly, without large tears in the dough.

3 folding rounds in first 1½–2 h; total first rise about 5 hours

Wet your hand, lift one edge of the dough just until it resists, then fold it across; work around 4–5 sides and turn the dough folded-side down. Keep it covered and let it relax between rounds of folding. Avoid tearing the dough, and leave it untouched for the last hour of this first rise.

Ready when: About 2½× its starting size, airy and stretchy.

After the first rise

Gently tip the dough onto a lightly floured counter and divide it equally. Fold each piece’s edges into the middle, turn the folded side down onto a patch without flour, then cup and gently pull it toward you while turning until the surface is firm without tearing. Put the rounds folded-side DOWN in floured rising baskets and cover, keeping as much air in the dough as possible.

Ready when: Moderately firm rounds that still have air bubbles inside.

12–14 hours

Put the covered rising baskets in closed bags and refrigerate overnight. Bake the loaves straight from the fridge; they do not need to warm up first.

Ready when: The loaves have grown and feel airy, but are firm enough to lift while cold.

At least 45 minutes, overlapping the last rise

Put the heavy lidded pots on the middle rack. Heat the oven and pots thoroughly to 245°C.

Ready when: The oven and pot are fully hot.

30 min covered + about 20 min uncovered

Turn each loaf out onto a lightly floured counter and carefully lower it folded-side UP into a hot pot. Bake with the lid on for 30 minutes, then remove the lid to finish baking. Use dry oven mitts and keep your hands clear of the hot metal.

Ready when: A deep brown crust; start checking 15 min after removing the lid.

At least 20 minutes; longer for cleaner slices

Take the loaves out of the pots and leave them on a rack to cool before slicing.

Ready when: Most steam has escaped and the inside no longer tears when sliced.

6–8 hours

Prepare the starter: keep only 100 g of ripe, active starter and mix in the flour and water listed for this feed. Aim for 26–27°C just after mixing, then cover and leave at room temperature. This prepared starter is the levain used later in the dough.

Ready when: The starter has grown, is bubbly and shows fine stretchy strands inside, with a pleasant fermented smell.

20–30 minutes

As the prepared starter nears readiness, mix only the flour and water listed for the final dough. Cover and let it rest, keeping the salt, yeast and prepared starter separate for now.

Ready when: All the flour is wet, with no dry patches.

3–6 minutes

Add the remaining group B ingredients to the rested dough, then wet your hand and fold the outer edges over them. Pinch through the dough with your thumb and forefinger 5–6 times, alternating with folds until evenly mixed, about 3–6 minutes. Rest briefly, fold again and aim for a dough temperature of 25–26°C.

Ready when: The dough looks even, with no streaks of starter or salt.

3–4 folding rounds in first 1½–2 h; total first rise about 5 hours

Wet your hand, lift one edge of the dough just until it resists, then fold it across; work around 4–5 sides and turn the dough folded-side down. Keep it covered and let it relax between rounds of folding. Avoid tearing the dough, and leave it untouched for the last hour of this first rise.

Ready when: About 2½× its starting size, airy and stretchy.

15-minute preshape rest, then final shaping

Gently divide the dough into two pieces, fold each piece’s edges into the middle, then turn folded-side down and cup and pull it toward you to make a round. Rest for 15 minutes, then tighten each round again using the same cupping and pulling motion. Put them folded-side DOWN in floured rising baskets and cover.

Ready when: Moderately firm rounds that still have air bubbles inside.

about 12 hours

Put the covered rising baskets in closed bags and refrigerate overnight. Bake the loaves straight from the fridge; they do not need to warm up first.

Ready when: The loaves have grown and feel airy, but are firm enough to lift while cold.

At least 45 minutes, overlapping the last rise

Put the heavy lidded pots on the middle rack. Heat the oven and pots thoroughly to 245°C.

Ready when: The oven and pot are fully hot.

30 min covered + about 20 min uncovered

Turn each loaf out onto a lightly floured counter and carefully lower it folded-side UP into a hot pot. Bake with the lid on for 30 minutes, then remove the lid to finish baking. Use dry oven mitts and keep your hands clear of the hot metal.

Ready when: A deep brown crust; start checking 15 min after removing the lid.

At least 20 minutes; longer for cleaner slices

Take the loaves out of the pots and leave them on a rack to cool before slicing.

Ready when: Most steam has escaped and the inside no longer tears when sliced.

6–8 hours

Prepare the starter: keep only 100 g of ripe, active starter and mix in the flour and water listed for this feed. Aim for 26–27°C just after mixing, then cover and leave at room temperature. This prepared starter is the levain used later in the dough.

Ready when: The starter has grown, is bubbly and shows fine stretchy strands inside, with a pleasant fermented smell.

20–30 minutes

As the prepared starter nears readiness, mix only the flour and water listed for the final dough. Cover and let it rest, keeping the salt, yeast and prepared starter separate for now.

Ready when: All the flour is wet, with no dry patches.

3–6 minutes

Add the remaining group B ingredients to the rested dough, then wet your hand and fold the outer edges over them. Pinch through the dough with your thumb and forefinger 5–6 times, alternating with folds until evenly mixed, about 3–6 minutes. Rest briefly, fold again and aim for a dough temperature of 25–26°C.

Ready when: The dough looks even, with no streaks of starter or salt.

3–4 folding rounds in first 1½–2 h; total first rise about 5 hours

Wet your hand, lift one edge of the dough just until it resists, then fold it across; work around 4–5 sides and turn the dough folded-side down. Keep it covered and let it relax between rounds of folding. Avoid tearing the dough, and leave it untouched for the last hour of this first rise.

Ready when: About 2½× its starting size, airy and stretchy.

15-minute preshape rest, then final shaping

Gently divide the dough into two pieces, fold each piece’s edges into the middle, then turn folded-side down and cup and pull it toward you to make a round. Rest for 15 minutes, then tighten each round again using the same cupping and pulling motion. Put them folded-side DOWN in floured rising baskets and cover.

Ready when: Moderately firm rounds that still have air bubbles inside.

11–12 hours

Put the covered rising baskets in closed bags and refrigerate overnight. Bake the loaves straight from the fridge; they do not need to warm up first.

Ready when: The loaves have grown and feel airy, but are firm enough to lift while cold.

At least 45 minutes, overlapping the last rise

Put the heavy lidded pots on the middle rack. Heat the oven and pots thoroughly to 245°C.

Ready when: The oven and pot are fully hot.

30 min covered + about 20 min uncovered

Turn each loaf out onto a lightly floured counter and carefully lower it folded-side UP into a hot pot. Bake with the lid on for 30 minutes, then remove the lid to finish baking. Use dry oven mitts and keep your hands clear of the hot metal.

Ready when: A deep brown crust; start checking 15 min after removing the lid.

At least 20 minutes; longer for cleaner slices

Take the loaves out of the pots and leave them on a rack to cool before slicing.

Ready when: Most steam has escaped and the inside no longer tears when sliced.

9–10 hours

Prepare the starter: keep only 100 g of ripe, active starter and mix in the flour and water listed for this feed. Aim for 26–27°C just after mixing, then cover and leave at room temperature. This prepared starter is the levain used later in the dough.

Ready when: The starter has grown, is bubbly and shows fine stretchy strands inside, with a pleasant fermented smell.

About 25–40 minutes, depending on moisture

Spread sliced mushrooms on baking parchment and roast at 205°C until deeply browned and dry on the surface, stirring when needed. Cool them promptly, then weigh out 225 g for the dough. Refrigerate them if preparing them ahead of time.

Ready when: The mushrooms are cool, with no liquid pooling around them.

20–30 minutes

As the prepared starter nears readiness, mix only the flour and water listed for the final dough. Cover and let it rest, keeping the salt, yeast and prepared starter separate for now.

Ready when: All the flour is wet, with no dry patches.

3–6 minutes

Add the remaining group B ingredients to the rested dough, then wet your hand and fold the outer edges over them. Pinch through the dough with your thumb and forefinger 5–6 times, alternating with folds until evenly mixed, about 3–6 minutes. Rest briefly, fold again and aim for a dough temperature of 25–26°C.

Ready when: The dough looks even, with no streaks of starter or salt.

10-minute rest, then incorporate

Let the dough rest for 10 minutes. Fold in the cooled mushrooms, olive oil and paprika until spread evenly throughout.

Ready when: The mushrooms are spread evenly, with no streaks of oil.

3–4 folding rounds in first 1½–2 h; total first rise about 12 hours; judge the dough

Wet your hand, lift one edge of the dough just until it resists, then fold it across; work around 4–5 sides and turn the dough folded-side down. Keep it covered and let it relax between rounds of folding. Avoid tearing the dough, and leave it untouched for the last hour of this first rise.

Ready when: Nearly 3× its starting size, though it may rise less in a cool kitchen.

After the first rise

Gently tip the dough onto a lightly floured counter and divide it equally. Fold each piece’s edges into the middle, turn the folded side down onto a patch without flour, then cup and gently pull it toward you while turning until the surface is firm without tearing. Put the rounds folded-side DOWN in floured rising baskets and cover, keeping as much air in the dough as possible.

Ready when: Moderately firm rounds that still have air bubbles inside.

3½–4 hours

Let the covered loaves rise at about 21°C. Gently press a loaf with a floured fingertip to make a small dent: it is ready when the dent slowly rises partway back and leaves a slight mark.

Ready when: A finger dent slowly rises partway back, and the loaf feels airy.

At least 45 minutes, overlapping the last rise

Put the heavy lidded pots on the middle rack. Heat the oven and pots thoroughly to 245°C.

Ready when: The oven and pot are fully hot.

30 min covered + 20–25 min uncovered

Turn each loaf out onto a lightly floured counter and carefully lower it folded-side UP into a hot pot. Bake with the lid on for 30 minutes, then remove the lid to finish baking. Use dry oven mitts and keep your hands clear of the hot metal.

Ready when: A deep brown crust; start checking 15 min after removing the lid.

At least 20 minutes; longer for cleaner slices

Take the loaves out of the pots and leave them on a rack to cool before slicing.

Ready when: Most steam has escaped and the inside no longer tears when sliced.

3 hours

Keep 50 g of active starter and mix in the flour and water listed for this feed. Cover and leave at room temperature. You are preparing the starter, called levain, that will raise the dough.

Ready when: Evenly mixed and beginning to show air bubbles.

4–5 hours

Keep only 250 g of the starter from the first feed, add the fresh flour and water listed for this feed, then mix and cover. Start the final dough’s flour-and-water rest 20–30 minutes before this feed is ready.

Ready when: The recently fed starter is airy, with a mild fermented smell.

20–30 minutes

As the prepared starter nears readiness, mix only the flour and water listed for the final dough. Cover and let it rest, keeping the salt, yeast and prepared starter separate for now.

Ready when: All the flour is wet, with no dry patches.

3–6 minutes

Add the remaining group B ingredients to the rested dough, then wet your hand and fold the outer edges over them. Pinch through the dough with your thumb and forefinger 5–6 times, alternating with folds until evenly mixed, about 3–6 minutes. Rest briefly, fold again and aim for a dough temperature of 25–26°C.

Ready when: The dough looks even, with no streaks of starter or salt.

4 folding rounds in first 1½–2 h; total first rise about 5 hours

Wet your hand, lift one edge of the dough just until it resists, then fold it across; work around 4–5 sides and turn the dough folded-side down. Keep it covered and let it relax between rounds of folding. Avoid tearing the dough, and leave it untouched for the last hour of this first rise.

Ready when: About 2½× its starting size, airy and stretchy.

After the first rise

Gently tip the dough onto a lightly floured counter and divide it equally. Fold each piece’s edges into the middle, turn the folded side down onto a patch without flour, then cup and gently pull it toward you while turning until the surface is firm without tearing. Put the rounds folded-side DOWN in floured rising baskets and cover, keeping as much air in the dough as possible.

Ready when: Moderately firm rounds that still have air bubbles inside.

12–14 hours

Put the covered rising baskets in closed bags and refrigerate overnight. Bake the loaves straight from the fridge; they do not need to warm up first.

Ready when: The loaves have grown and feel airy, but are firm enough to lift while cold.

At least 45 minutes, overlapping the last rise

Put the heavy lidded pots on the middle rack. Heat the oven and pots thoroughly to 245°C.

Ready when: The oven and pot are fully hot.

30 min covered + 20–25 min uncovered

Turn each loaf out onto a lightly floured counter and carefully lower it folded-side UP into a hot pot. Bake with the lid on for 30 minutes, then remove the lid to finish baking. Use dry oven mitts and keep your hands clear of the hot metal.

Ready when: A deep brown crust; start checking 15 min after removing the lid.

At least 20 minutes; longer for cleaner slices

Take the loaves out of the pots and leave them on a rack to cool before slicing.

Ready when: Most steam has escaped and the inside no longer tears when sliced.

About 8 hours

Keep 50 g starter and mix in the flour and water listed for this feed. Cover and put it in a warm place measured at 29–32°C. This prepares the starter, called levain, for the dough.

Ready when: The firm starter has grown 3–4×, with bubbles and fine stretchy strands inside.

14–15 hours overnight

Keep only 50 g of the starter from the first feed. Mix in the fresh flour and water listed for this second feed, cover and leave it in the same warm place.

Ready when: The starter has grown well and is airy again.

About 6 hours

Keep only 100 g starter and mix in the flour and water listed for this third feed. Cover and leave it in the warm place. After about 5½ hours, start resting the final dough’s flour and water together.

Ready when: The starter has risen strongly, with fine stretchy strands inside.

20–30 minutes

As the prepared starter nears readiness, mix only the flour and water listed for the final dough. Cover and let it rest, keeping the salt, yeast and prepared starter separate for now.

Ready when: All the flour is wet, with no dry patches.

3–6 minutes

Add the remaining group B ingredients to the rested dough, then wet your hand and fold the outer edges over them. Pinch through the dough with your thumb and forefinger 5–6 times, alternating with folds until evenly mixed, about 3–6 minutes. Rest briefly, fold again and aim for a dough temperature of 25–26°C.

Ready when: The dough looks even, with no streaks of starter or salt.

3–4 folding rounds in first 1½–2 h; total first rise 5–6 hours

Wet your hand, lift one edge of the dough just until it resists, then fold it across; work around 4–5 sides and turn the dough folded-side down. Keep it covered and let it relax between rounds of folding. Avoid tearing the dough, and leave it untouched for the last hour of this first rise.

Ready when: About 2½× its starting size, airy and stretchy.

After the first rise

Gently tip the dough onto a lightly floured counter and divide it equally. Fold each piece’s edges into the middle, turn the folded side down onto a patch without flour, then cup and gently pull it toward you while turning until the surface is firm without tearing. Put the rounds folded-side DOWN in floured rising baskets and cover, keeping as much air in the dough as possible.

Ready when: Moderately firm rounds that still have air bubbles inside.

11–12 hours

Put the covered rising baskets in closed bags and refrigerate overnight. Bake the loaves straight from the fridge; they do not need to warm up first.

Ready when: The loaves have grown and feel airy, but are firm enough to lift while cold.

At least 45 minutes, overlapping the last rise

Put the heavy lidded pots on the middle rack. Heat the oven and pots thoroughly to 245°C.

Ready when: The oven and pot are fully hot.

30 min covered + 20–25 min uncovered

Turn each loaf out onto a lightly floured counter and carefully lower it folded-side UP into a hot pot. Bake with the lid on for 30 minutes, then remove the lid to finish baking. Use dry oven mitts and keep your hands clear of the hot metal.

Ready when: A deep brown crust; start checking 15 min after removing the lid.

At least 20 minutes; longer for cleaner slices

Take the loaves out of the pots and leave them on a rack to cool before slicing.

Ready when: Most steam has escaped and the inside no longer tears when sliced.

About 8 hours

Keep 50 g starter and mix in the flour and water listed for this feed. Cover and put it in a warm place measured at 29–32°C. This prepares the starter, called levain, for the dough.

Ready when: The firm starter has grown 3–4×, with bubbles and fine stretchy strands inside.

14–15 hours overnight

Keep only 50 g of the starter from the first feed. Mix in the fresh flour and water listed for this second feed, cover and leave it in the same warm place.

Ready when: The starter has grown well and is airy again.

About 6 hours

Keep only 100 g starter and mix in the flour and water listed for this third feed. Cover and leave it in the warm place. After about 5½ hours, start resting the final dough’s flour and water together.

Ready when: The starter has risen strongly, with fine stretchy strands inside.

20–30 minutes

As the prepared starter nears readiness, mix only the flour and water listed for the final dough. Cover and let it rest, keeping the salt, yeast and prepared starter separate for now.

Ready when: All the flour is wet, with no dry patches.

3–6 minutes

Add the remaining group B ingredients to the rested dough, then wet your hand and fold the outer edges over them. Pinch through the dough with your thumb and forefinger 5–6 times, alternating with folds until evenly mixed, about 3–6 minutes. Rest briefly, fold again and aim for a dough temperature of 25–26°C.

Ready when: The dough looks even, with no streaks of starter or salt.

3–4 folding rounds in first 1½–2 h; total first rise 5–6 hours

Wet your hand, lift one edge of the dough just until it resists, then fold it across; work around 4–5 sides and turn the dough folded-side down. Keep it covered and let it relax between rounds of folding. Avoid tearing the dough, and leave it untouched for the last hour of this first rise.

Ready when: About 2½× its starting size, airy and stretchy.

After the first rise

Gently tip the dough onto a lightly floured counter and divide it equally. Fold each piece’s edges into the middle, turn the folded side down onto a patch without flour, then cup and gently pull it toward you while turning until the surface is firm without tearing. Put the rounds folded-side DOWN in floured rising baskets and cover, keeping as much air in the dough as possible.

Ready when: Moderately firm rounds that still have air bubbles inside.

11–12 hours

Put the covered rising baskets in closed bags and refrigerate overnight. Bake the loaves straight from the fridge; they do not need to warm up first.

Ready when: The loaves have grown and feel airy, but are firm enough to lift while cold.

At least 45 minutes, overlapping the last rise

Put the heavy lidded pots on the middle rack. Heat the oven and pots thoroughly to 245°C.

Ready when: The oven and pot are fully hot.

30 min covered + 20–25 min uncovered

Turn each loaf out onto a lightly floured counter and carefully lower it folded-side UP into a hot pot. Bake with the lid on for 30 minutes, then remove the lid to finish baking. Use dry oven mitts and keep your hands clear of the hot metal.

Ready when: A deep brown crust; start checking 15 min after removing the lid.

At least 20 minutes; longer for cleaner slices

Take the loaves out of the pots and leave them on a rack to cool before slicing.

Ready when: Most steam has escaped and the inside no longer tears when sliced.

7–9 hours

Prepare the starter: keep only 100 g of ripe, active starter and mix in the flour and water listed for this feed. Aim for 26–27°C just after mixing, then cover and leave at room temperature. This prepared starter is the levain used later in the dough.

Ready when: The starter has grown, is bubbly and shows fine stretchy strands inside, with a pleasant fermented smell.

20–30 minutes

As the prepared starter nears readiness, mix only the flour and water listed for the final dough. Cover and let it rest, keeping the salt, yeast and prepared starter separate for now.

Ready when: All the flour is wet, with no dry patches.

3–6 minutes

Add the remaining group B ingredients to the rested dough, then wet your hand and fold the outer edges over them. Pinch through the dough with your thumb and forefinger 5–6 times, alternating with folds until evenly mixed, about 3–6 minutes. Rest briefly, fold again and aim for a dough temperature of 25–26°C.

Ready when: The dough looks even, with no streaks of starter or salt.

3–4 folding rounds before bed; total first rise 12–15 h

Wet your hand, lift one edge just until it resists and fold it across; repeat around 4–5 sides, then turn the dough folded-side down without tearing it. Cover and let it relax between folding rounds, leaving it untouched for the last hour of this first rise. This slowly rising dough can have its last fold later in the evening.

Ready when: Nearly 3× its starting size, though it may rise less in a cool kitchen.

After the first rise

Keep the dough in one piece, fold its edges into the middle, then turn the folded side down and cup and pull it toward you to make one round loaf. Set it folded-side DOWN on a floured cloth that will not shed fibres. Loosely fold the cloth over it, leaving about 2.5 cm of space for the loaf to expand.

Ready when: A firm round loaf with enough loose cloth around it to keep rising.

4½–5 hours

Let the loaf rise at about 21°C until it is airy. Watch how much it has grown and gently press it with a floured finger to check whether it is ready.

Ready when: A finger dent slowly rises partway back, and the loaf stays rounded.

At least 45 minutes

Put the baking stone on the middle rack with a sturdy metal tray on the rack below. Heat the oven to 260°C and keep the stone dry.

Ready when: The stone and oven are fully hot.

5 min at 260°C, then 35–40 min at 245°C; extend if needed

Turn the loaf folded-side UP onto a floured baking peel, the flat paddle used to slide it into the oven; if you like, make cuts around the edge in an overlapping square. Slide it onto the stone, then carefully pour boiling water into the metal tray, keeping your hands clear of the steam. After 5 minutes, lower the oven to 245°C.

Ready when: A deep brown crust, firm sides and a fully baked centre; check the colour early at 30 min.

A few minutes in oven; several hours cooling

Turn the oven off and leave the door slightly open for a few minutes. Move the loaf to a rack and let it cool all the way through before slicing.

Ready when: The inside has firmed up all the way through this large loaf.

About 9 h; e.g. 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Keep 50 g starter and mix in the fresh flour and water listed for this feed. Cover and leave at room temperature.

Ready when: More bubbles and a growing mixture.

About 15 h overnight

Keep 250 g of the starter from the first feed and discard the rest. Mix in the flour and water listed for this feed and cover.

Ready when: The starter has grown, with fine stretchy strands inside.

About 6 h; e.g. 9 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Keep only 100 g of the starter from the second feed. Mix in the flour and water listed for this feed, then cover and leave until it is airy and ready to use in the dough.

Ready when: Bubbly, with fine stretchy strands and a mild fermented smell; it has not sunk back down.

20–30 minutes

As the prepared starter nears readiness, mix only the flour and water listed for the final dough. Cover and let it rest, keeping the salt, yeast and prepared starter separate for now.

Ready when: All the flour is wet, with no dry patches.

3–6 minutes

Add the remaining group B ingredients to the rested dough, then wet your hand and fold the outer edges over them. Pinch through the dough with your thumb and forefinger 5–6 times, alternating with folds until evenly mixed, about 3–6 minutes. Rest briefly, fold again and aim for a dough temperature of 25–26°C.

Ready when: The dough looks even, with no streaks of starter or salt.

3–4 folding rounds in first 1½–2 h; total first rise about 5 hours

Wet your hand, lift one edge of the dough just until it resists, then fold it across; work around 4–5 sides and turn the dough folded-side down. Keep it covered and let it relax between rounds of folding. Avoid tearing the dough, and leave it untouched for the last hour of this first rise.

Ready when: About 2½× its starting size, airy and stretchy.

After the first rise

Gently tip the dough onto a lightly floured counter and divide it equally. Fold each piece’s edges into the middle, turn the folded side down onto a patch without flour, then cup and gently pull it toward you while turning until the surface is firm without tearing. Put the rounds folded-side DOWN in floured rising baskets and cover, keeping as much air in the dough as possible.

Ready when: Moderately firm rounds that still have air bubbles inside.

12–14 hours

Put the covered rising baskets in closed bags and refrigerate overnight. Bake the loaves straight from the fridge; they do not need to warm up first.

Ready when: The loaves have grown and feel airy, but are firm enough to lift while cold.

At least 45 minutes, overlapping the last rise

Put the heavy lidded pots on the middle rack. Heat the oven and pots thoroughly to 245°C.

Ready when: The oven and pot are fully hot.

30 min covered + about 20 min uncovered

Turn each loaf out onto a lightly floured counter and carefully lower it folded-side UP into a hot pot. Bake with the lid on for 30 minutes, then remove the lid to finish baking. Use dry oven mitts and keep your hands clear of the hot metal.

Ready when: A deep brown crust; start checking 15 min after removing the lid.

At least 20 minutes; longer for cleaner slices

Take the loaves out of the pots and leave them on a rack to cool before slicing.

Ready when: Most steam has escaped and the inside no longer tears when sliced.