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Suspenders

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Suspenders, known as braces in British, Australian, and New Zealand English, are functional garment accessories. They consist of fabric or leather straps worn over the shoulders to secure skirts or trousers.

Man wearing suspenders
Man wearing suspenders

These straps are often elasticated, either throughout the entire length or just at the ends. Most designs use woven cloth that forms a Y or X shape at the back of the wearer. They serve a practical purpose by keeping clothing in place, especially when waistbands are high.

Suspenders MET 66.9.311a-b CP4
Suspenders MET 66.9.311a-b CP4

To function, suspenders must attach securely to the waistband of a garment. Most styles use leather tabs at the ends to facilitate this connection. Some versions use clips to grip the fabric directly. Other more traditional versions require buttons to be sewn onto the waistband.

Josh Wilson 005
Josh Wilson 005

For a proper fit, one must measure from the back pant line, then cross over to the opposite shoulder. This measurement should then go down to the front pant line. Adding a few extra inches allows for necessary adjustments.

There are several distinct types and materials used in their construction. High-quality suspenders often utilize silk webbing or tubed suiting cloths from specialized mills like Dugdale Bros of England. Modern versions frequently use rayon, which is a hard-wearing synthetic fiber. This rayon is often combined with elastic webbing to create flexible straps. In the United Kingdom, the term "suspender" also refers to a suspender belt. This is a garment used to hold up stockings, which Americans call a garter belt.

History shows that modern braces were popularized in 1822 by Albert Thurston. He was a London haberdasher who turned them into a common commodity for gentlemen.

Suspenders MET 66.9.311a-b CP4
Suspenders MET 66.9.311a-b CP4

His business in London continues to trade today. During the nineteenth century, these straps were sometimes referred to as galluses. In 1871, the famous author Samuel Clemens, better known as Mark Twain, received a United States patent. His patent was for "Adjustable and Detachable Straps for Garments."

Josh Wilson 005
Josh Wilson 005

The popularity of suspenders has fluctuated significantly over the last century. In the mid-nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, they were nearly universal. This was because high-cut skirts and trousers made belts impractical. However, after World War I, men became accustomed to uniform belts. By the 1930s, many men viewed suspenders as undergarments. This shift occurred as waistcoats, or vests, were worn less often. In 1938, Life magazine reported that 60% of American men preferred belts over suspenders.

Larry King
Larry King

Despite these shifts, suspenders have seen various resurgences in fashion. The return of fuller-cut trousers in the 1940s brought them back into use. They remain a standard part of formal attire in the United Kingdom. In modern times, they have appeared in films like Wall Street and are worn by professionals like lawyers. Famous newscaster Larry King was a well-known wearer of the accessory.

Larry King
Larry King

They also play a role in subcultures, such as skinhead and punk fashion, where narrow, clip-on styles are common.

Suspenders also connect to broader shifts in social etiquette and gender expression. Historically, it was considered a faux pas to show suspenders in public. Men wore waistcoats, jumpers, or jackets to hide them and maintain decency. This sensibility eroded during the inter-war period as men began removing jackets in public. In the 1960s and 1980s, women also adopted the style. The vocalist Annie Lennox famously used red suspenders with dark suits to create a unique look. Today, wearing suspenders is generally accepted as a standard fashion choice on both sides of the Atlantic.

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File:Josh Wilson 005.JPG
Josh Wilson 005.JPG
File:Man wearing suspenders.jpg
Man wearing suspenders.jpg
File:Suspenders MET 66.9.311a-b CP4.jpg
Suspenders MET 66.9.311a-b CP4.jpg
File:Larry King.jpg
Larry King.jpg
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