Waistcoat

A waistcoat is a sleeveless garment worn on the upper body.

In the United Kingdom and Commonwealth nations, it is called a waistcoat. In the United States and Canada, it is commonly called a vest. It is typically worn over a dress shirt and necktie. It often sits beneath a coat as part of formal attire. In a traditional three-piece suit, the waistcoat serves as the third essential piece. These garments range from very simple to highly ornate. They can be used for everyday leisure or for high luxury.

Most waistcoats feature a full vertical opening in the front. This opening is fastened using buttons or press studs, also known as snaps. There are two main styles: single-breasted and double-breasted. Single-breasted versions are more common in daily wear. In a formal three-piece suit, the fabric usually matches the jacket and trousers. Some styles even include lapels or revers, which are folded flaps of cloth.

Historically, gentlemen used the waistcoat pocket to carry pocket watches. They would thread a watch chain through a buttonhole to secure it. A small metal bar on the chain would catch the watch if it were dropped.

There are specific rules for different types of social occasions. For daytime formal wear, such as a lounge suit, a waistcoat might be a contrasting color. Common colors include buff or dove gray.

Evening wear follows much stricter requirements. For white tie events, a white waistcoat is required. For black tie events, a black waistcoat is worn. These evening versions are cut much lower on the chest than daytime versions. This allows more of the shirt to show. They may feature "U" or "V" shaped necklines and different tip shapes, such as pointed, flat, or rounded.

Customs also surround how the garment is worn. For example, many people leave the bottom button of a single-breasted waistcoat undone. Some myths claim King Edward VII started this because of his waistline. However, the practice may have started to prevent the garment from riding up while riding horses. Undoing the button also prevents the fabric from wrinkling or bulging when sitting. Modern waistcoats are cut lower than older versions, which makes this practice helpful. Note that this convention does not apply to double-breasted or evening waistcoats, which remain fully buttoned.

The history of the waistcoat is quite long. Its predecessors include the medieval doublet and the gambeson. In the 17th century, the garment was often long-sleeved and reached the knees. In 1666, King Charles II of England introduced a new fashion for men. He declared a resolution to set a fashion that he would never alter. He promoted a vest to teach the nobility the value of thrift. This was a move away from the dominant French fashions of the time.

During the 17th and 18th centuries, the waistcoat evolved significantly. Early versions were often collarless and had many closely spaced buttons. By the mid-18th century, they began to become shorter. The straight-cut sides eventually gave way to fuller, flared skirts. By the end of the 18th century, many waistcoats had become sleeveless. After the French Revolution in 1789, anti-aristocratic feelings made waistcoats less elaborate. By 1810, the fit became tighter and shorter. It began to serve as a foundation garment to help shape the wearer's figure.

Today, the waistcoat appears in many different professional and social roles.

In the Girl Scouts of the USA, vests are used to display badges instead of a sash. In the United Kingdom, billiard players often wear them during snooker or blackball tournaments. Even members of the clergy have specific styles. Some wear a clerical waistcoat that buttons all the way to the neck. This design allows the clerical collar to remain visible. These diverse uses show how a single garment can adapt to many different cultures and needs.