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Mount Fairweather

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Mount Fairweather is a huge and impressive mountain.

Mount Fairweather mountaineering
Mount Fairweather mountaineering

It sits right on the border between Canada and the United States. The peak is part of the Saint Elias Mountains. Most of the mountain is inside Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve. The very top of the peak sits near Tatshenshini-Alsek Provincial Park. This mountain is the tallest in British Columbia. It is also the seventh-tallest mountain in the United States. It rises very high from the waters of Glacier Bay.

The weather on the mountain is often very harsh. Low pressure systems come from the North Pacific Ocean. These systems bring a lot of snow and rain. The mountain gets a huge amount of precipitation each year. This often makes the weather very bad and cold. Thick clouds frequently move in around the peak. These clouds can hide the summit from anyone looking at it.

The Southeast (Carpé) Ridge of Mt. Fairweather
The Southeast (Carpé) Ridge of Mt. Fairweather

Different people have given the mountain many names. The Tlingit people call it Tsalxaan. They have a story about the mountain and a peak called Mt. St. Elias. The story says they had an argument and moved apart. The smaller mountains between them are called the children of Tsalxaan. Captain James Cook gave it the name Mount Fairweather in 1778. He chose this name because the weather was unusually good that day. Other maps used names like Mt. Beautemps or Schönwetterberg.

Climbing the mountain is a very hard job. In 1926, a group tried to climb the West Ridge. They had to turn back because a steep notch made it hard to carry supplies. In 1930, Bradford Washburn also tried to climb the West Ridge. He had to retreat because of the difficult traveling conditions. Finally, in 1931, Allen Carpe and Terris Moore reached the summit. They climbed up the Southeast Ridge on June 8, 1931. They had to wait for the weather to clear before they could finish.

Many other climbers have visited the mountain since that first success. In 1958, a group of eight Canadians reached the top. In 1968, five people reached the summit via the West Ridge. Other groups have climbed the Southwest Ridge or the Southeast Ridge. One group even climbed from the ocean in 1981. They spent 19 days on their trip and slept in a crevasse. The mountain remains a famous place for people who love to climb.

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🖼️ Images & Media (2)
File:Mount Fairweather mountaineering.jpg
Mount Fairweather mountaineering.jpg
File:The Southeast (Carpé) Ridge of Mt. Fairweather.jpg
The Southeast (Carpé) Ridge of Mt. Fairweather.jpg
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