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Foundation (cosmetics)

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Foundation is a type of cosmetic applied to the face and neck. It can arrive in liquid, cream, or powder forms. Its primary purpose is to create an even, uniform complexion. It can also cover skin flaws or change a person's natural skin tone. Some modern formulas provide extra benefits like moisturizer or sunscreen. When applied to the entire body, it is called body makeup or body painting.

Foundation (cosmetics)
Foundation (cosmetics)

The history of complexion enhancement reaches back into antiquity. Ancient Egyptians used foundation to change their appearance. In 200 BC, Greek women used white lead powder and chalk to look pale. Roman women also favored this pale look. Wealthy Romans used a white lead paste. This substance was dangerous and could cause disfigurement or death. Men also used makeup to lighten their skin. They used creams made from animal fat, starch, and tin oxide. The fat provided a smooth texture for the skin. The tin oxide was created by heating tin metal in the open air.

Fashionable standards for skin color changed through many centuries. In the Middle Ages, pale skin signaled affluence. This was because tanned skin was linked to outdoor labor. In the 6th century, some women even bled themselves to appear paler. During the Italian Renaissance, women used water-soluble lead paint. In the Elizabethan era, women wore ceruse. This was a lethal mixture of white lead and vinegar. Many people died from using these lead-based products. In the 18th century, Louis XV made lead makeup fashionable for men. Later, Queen Victoria deemed makeup inappropriate for most women. She believed it was only for actors or prostitutes.

Modern foundation has roots in the theater. Carl Baudin of the Leipziger Stadt theatre invented greasepaint. He wanted to hide the gap between a wig and the forehead. He created a paste using lard, zinc white, ochre, and vermillion. This became the standard for stage makeup until 1914. At that time, Max Factor created Flexible Greasepaint for movie sets. Factor later developed Pan-Cake, the first commercial foundation. It was patented in 1937 and became a massive success. It used talc as a base instead of oil or wax. This allowed it to be a foundation and powder in one. By 1940, one in three North American women owned Pan-Cake.

Today, finding the right color is a complex process. Cosmetic companies classify foundations as Warm, Neutral, Olive, or Cool. These names help match the wearer's skin tone. However, names are not standardized like the Pantone system. A "Medium Beige" from one brand may differ from another. Some professional lines use names to "cancel out" natural tones. For example, a person with warm skin might choose a cool foundation. Shade ranges also vary greatly between different brands. Haus Labs by Lady Gaga released 51 shades in 2023. This is currently the largest number of shades for a single brand.

Coverage describes how much the makeup conceals the skin. This is determined by the amount of pigment in the formula. Sheer foundation is very transparent. It contains only 8% to 13% pigment. It can minimize contrast but will not hide freckles. Light coverage contains 13% to 18% pigment. It covers slight blotchiness but is not opaque. Medium coverage contains 18% to 23% pigment. It can cover red marks and freckles when set with powder. Full coverage is the most opaque type. It contains up to 35% pigment and can hide scars or birthmarks. Professional stage brands may use up to 50% pigment.

People use different tools to apply these products. Fingers can create a natural look because body heat melts the makeup. However, fingers may cause streaks with full-coverage products. Sponges are excellent for sheer or medium coverage. A wet sponge helps distribute the product evenly. Using a pointed sponge is best for the under-eye area. Brushes are also common. Synthetic bristles work best for liquid foundation. Natural bristles are better for powder products. Some artists use an airbrush to spray tiny droplets. This creates an even, sheer appearance that looks very natural.

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