Poke (dish)

Poke is a traditional Hawaiian dish consisting of diced raw fish tossed in a flavorful sauce. The name comes from the Hawaiian word for "to slice" or "to cut crosswise into pieces."

It serves as either a light appetizer or a substantial main course. While it is often associated with raw seafood, contemporary versions are quite freeform. Chefs may cure the fish like ceviche or even cook it entirely. Some modern variations even use non-fish ingredients like tofu or beef. This flexibility allows the dish to adapt to many different culinary styles.

To prepare poke, a cook must first dice the fish into small, even cubes. The seasoning process then transforms these pieces through various flavor profiles. Traditionally, the fish was seasoned with sea salt and inamona, a special relish. This relish was made by mixing dried octopus ink sacs, fish liver, and salt.

Modern preparations often follow a different sequence of flavors. Many people start with a base of soy sauce and sesame oil. They might then add Maui onions, scallions, or ogo, which is a type of seaweed.

More intense versions, like "spicy ahi," use a mixture of Sriracha and mayonnaise.

There are many distinct types of seafood used in poke depending on the region and preference. Tuna is the most common choice found at local Hawaiian seafood counters. This includes albacore tuna, also known as tombo, and bigeye tuna, or mebachi. Yellowfin tuna, called kihada, is another popular option.

Other seafood choices include octopus, known as tako, or various types of marlin. Some recipes even feature shellfish like opihi, which includes yellowfoot and blackfoot varieties. Even vegetarian options like tofu have become a common way to enjoy the dish.

The history of poke is tied to the changing social structures of Hawaii. In the pre-contact period, the kapu system regulated how food was shared. Most fish were caught in shallow reefs or large fishponds near the shore. Fish caught in the deep sea were reserved specifically for chiefs. Poke began as simple cut-offs from a catch to be eaten as a snack. These pieces were often eaten raw with sea salt and inamona. Over time, outside influences introduced new ingredients that changed the dish forever.

Several historical arrivals shaped the modern flavors of poke. Captain James Cook brought onion seeds to the islands in 1778. Later, Francisco de Paula Marin introduced tomatoes and helped popularize onions. In the 1830s, Hawaiians were introduced to salmon through contact with the Pacific Northwest. By the mid-19th century, immigrants from China and Japan arrived as plantation laborers. They brought essential ingredients like soy sauce, sesame oil, and namerō. These additions helped create the fusion flavors we recognize today.

The tuna industry significantly impacted how poke is consumed in the modern era. Before 1900, tuna fishing was small-scale and used canoes near the reef. Between the 1920s and 1930s, Japanese fishing vessels dominated the Hawaiian waters. They primarily used longline fishing for skipjack tuna. By the 1970s, a growing demand for sashimi-grade tuna changed the market. Yellowfin and bigeye tuna became highly sought after for export. In 1991, the price of yellowfin tuna was 58% higher than bigeye tuna.

This economic shift influenced which fish were available for local poke.

In the 1990s, a movement known as Hawaii Regional Cuisine helped elevate poke. Chefs like Sam Choy advocated for a distinct fusion style using local ingredients. Choy started a recipe contest in 1992 to showcase new flavor combinations. This contest offered more than $15,000 in cash and prizes to participants. This movement helped turn a common snack into an upscale restaurant item. Today, poke has spread far beyond Hawaii. In North America, the popularity of poke bowls grew rapidly after 2012. Between 2014 and 2016, the number of Hawaiian restaurants on Foursquare doubled from 342 to 700.