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Linen

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Linen is a highly durable textile made from the fibers of the flax plant, *Linum usitatissimum*.

Linum usitatissimum - Köhler–s Medizinal-Pflanzen-088
Linum usitatissimum - Köhler–s Medizinal-Pflanzen-088

It is valued for being very strong and highly absorbent. Because it dries much faster than cotton, it is a preferred material for clothing in hot climates. Linen is also known for its distinctive tendency to wrinkle. While it is a natural fiber, it is more difficult to weave than cotton. This is because the flax thread lacks elasticity. If the weaver pulls too hard, the threads can break during the process.

Textielmuseum-cabinet-02
Textielmuseum-cabinet-02

The production of linen involves several complex stages. First, the flax plant must be harvested, which takes significantly longer than harvesting cotton. The fibers are then processed into yarn. This yarn can be woven into cloth or knitted into garments. The strength of linen comes from its cellulose fibers. These fibers are longer and wrapped more tightly than those found in cotton. Because of this structure, linen can be up to three times stronger than cotton.

Linen has an incredibly deep history spanning tens of thousands of years.

Linen cloth
Linen cloth

Evidence of dyed flax fibers was found in a cave in the Caucasus, in modern-day Georgia. These fibers may date back over 30,000 years. In ancient Mesopotamia, flax was domesticated to produce linen. It was often used by the wealthy and by priests. In ancient Egypt, linen held great cultural significance. It was used for daily clothing to combat extreme heat. White linen was often worn to represent purity.

Egyptians also used linen for mummification and burial shrouds. In these rituals, the fabric served as a symbol of light and wealth. The Tarkhan dress, dated between 3482 and 3102 BC, is one of the oldest known woven garments and is made of linen.

As centuries passed, linen became a pillar of many global economies. By the Middle Ages, a thriving trade in German flax and linen existed. By the 11th century, this trade had spread to Flanders and Brabant. The Lower Rhine became a major center for linen production. In Ireland, flax was being grown and sold by the 11th century. The industry saw a major boost in Ireland after 1685. When the Edict of Nantes was revoked, Huguenots fled to the British Isles. They brought improved production methods with them. One leader, Louis Crommelin, helped develop the industry across Ireland.

Prices edict grades
Prices edict grades

This led to the creation of the Board of Trustees of the Linen Manufacturers of Ireland in 1711.

During the Victorian era, the city of Lisburn became a world leader in production. It produced so much linen that it earned the name "Linenopolis." In the 18th and 19th centuries, the industry was critical to European economies. In the United States, linen was a vital asset for colonial households. Many farmers in the northern U.S. grew flax for family clothing through the 1830s. Russia also played a massive role in the global market. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, linen was Russia's greatest export. At one point, Russia produced approximately 80% of the world's fiber flax crop.

Today, linen serves many specialized roles in art and industry.

It is a preferred support for oil paintings because of its archival integrity. While cotton is cheaper in the United States, professional painters often prefer linen for its strength. In the culinary world, artisan bakers use a linen cloth called a *couche*. The cloth is dusted with flour to create a non-stick surface. It helps hold bread dough in shape during its final rise. Linen is also used for industrial items like sailcloth, canvases, and ropes. Interestingly, its tensility can increase by 20% when the cloth is wet.

The word "linen" itself tells a story of how the fabric was used. It comes from West Germanic origins and is related to the Latin name for flax. The use of linen thread to mark a straight line gave us the English word "line." The word "lining" exists because linen was often used for the inner layers of clothes. Even the word "lingerie" comes from the French word for underwear, which was historically made of linen.

Handkerchief
Handkerchief

Whether it is used in high fashion or in a baker's kitchen, linen remains a vital part of human culture.

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🖼️ Images & Media (12)
File:Handkerchief.jpg
Handkerchief.jpg
File:Linen cloth.jpg
Linen cloth.jpg
File:Textielmuseum-cabinet-02.jpg
Textielmuseum-cabinet-02.jpg
File:A bag of white linen, unopened. Contains rolls of linen only. Foundation deposit, Heb Sed Chapel at Lahun, Fayum, Egypt. 12th Dynasty. The Petrie Museum of Egyptian Archaeology, London.jpg
A bag of white linen, unopened. Contains...
File:Prices edict grades.jpg
Prices edict grades.jpg
File:Ancient Coptic material.jpg
Ancient Coptic material.jpg
File:Green Pleated Linen Dress, 'Irish Moss' by Sybil Connolly - Full Length Back.jpg
Green Pleated Linen Dress, 'Irish Moss'...
File:Labeledstemforposter copy new.jpg
Labeledstemforposter copy new.jpg
File:Linum usitatissimum - Köhler–s Medizinal-Pflanzen-088.jpg
Linum usitatissimum - Köhler–s...
File:LinenMechanicalHarvesting-Summer2009-Belgium.JPG
LinenMechanicalHarvesting-Summer2009-Belgium.JPG
Rhof-flachsbearbeitung.ogv
Bäuerliche Leinenweberei - 4. Die...
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