Ghajar

Ghajar is a small village located on the Hasbani River. It sits directly on the border between Lebanon and the Israeli-occupied Golan Heights. The name Ghajar translates to "gypsy" in Arabic. Most of the residents are Alawites, which is a specific religious group. While the village is physically split by a border, the people living there share a unique identity. Many residents consider themselves Syrian, even though they hold Israeli identity cards.

The history of the village shows how names and people change over time. In 1535, Ottoman tax registers recorded the settlement as Taranjeh. This name likely comes from an older Aramaic or pre-Arabic word. Later, the name Ghajar became the standard name for the area. This new name may have been an ethnonym, which is a name used to describe a group of people. It likely referred to non-Arab inhabitants who lived there in the past. Some local legends even claim the land was once seized by Kurds during the Ottoman era. One story tells of a Kurdish governor whose horse refused to step on the tomb of a holy man named Sheikh al-Arba'in.

In the early 20th century, the residents made important decisions about their nationality. In 1932, the predominantly Alawite population was given a choice. They overwhelmingly chose to be part of Syria. Before the 1967 Arab-Israeli War, Ghajar was officially part of Syria. It was one of three mainly Alawite villages in the Golan Heights, along with Za'ura and 'Ayn Fit. The 1960 Syrian census included the residents of Ghajar as Syrian citizens.

The modern era brought significant changes through conflict and new borders. When Israel captured the Golan Heights in 1967, Ghajar became a no-man's land for two and a half months. The villagers petitioned the Israeli governor to attach them to the occupied Golan Heights. They did this because they identified as Syrians. Israel agreed to this request. In 1981, the Israeli government passed the Golan Heights Law. This law annexed the territory to Israel. Under pressure from authorities, most Alawite villagers accepted Israeli citizenship during this time.

In 2000, Israel withdrew its troops from Lebanon. To create a permanent boundary, the United Nations drew a line called the Blue Line. This line divided Ghajar into two distinct sections. The northern half of the village fell under Lebanese control. The southern half remained under Israeli occupation. This division caused significant tension. In 2005, Hezbollah launched a missile at the village. Following more attacks in 2006, Israel invaded southern Lebanon. During the 2006 Lebanon War, Israel re-occupied the northern half of Ghajar.

Since then, the status of the village has remained complicated. In 2009 and 2010, there were discussions about Israel withdrawing from the northern part of the village. Residents protested these plans because they did not want the village to be divided. While Israel intended to move security matters to the United Nations Interim Force in Lebanon (UNIFIL), the process stalled. The Syrian Civil War also caused Israel to halt its redeployment along the border. Currently, Israel continues to occupy the entire village and the land crossing the Blue Line. This includes a small area inside Lebanese territory.

Despite these political tensions, Ghajar has become a growing center for tourism. In September 2022, the Israel Defense Forces lifted restrictions on the village. This allowed visitors from outside the community to enter for the first time in years. The village has become a local hotspot for travelers. In 2022, local officials reported that up to 4,000 visitors arrived every day. Many residents work in the nearby Israeli town of Kiryat Shmona. Others have started organizing local tours and home hospitality to welcome these guests.

The culture of Ghajar is also expressed through its unique cuisine. Visitors often come to try traditional dishes that represent the local heritage. One specialty is called mitabla, which consists of grains of wheat and corn cooked in milk. Another popular dish is bisara. This is a thick stew made from bulgur, chickpeas, and fried onions. It is often served with a sauce made of garlic and lemon. These foods offer a sensory connection to the history and identity of the Alawite community in this border region.