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Rubia tinctorum

life science Maturity 5-7 Next article →

Rubia tinctorum is a herbaceous perennial plant. It belongs to the Rubiaceae family, which includes about 80 flowering plants. This species is commonly known as rose madder, common madder, or dyer's madder. It is a climbing plant that grows up to 1.5 meters tall. The plant uses tiny hooks on its leaves and stems to climb. Its evergreen leaves grow in star-like whorls of four to seven around the stem. These leaves are about 5 to 10 cm long. Small yellow flowers appear between June and August. These flowers grow in dense clusters called racemes.

Rubia tinctorum - Köhler–s Medizinal-Pflanzen-123
Rubia tinctorum - Köhler–s Medizinal-Pflanzen-123

The most important part of the madder plant is its root system. The roots can grow over one meter long and reach 12 mm in thickness. These roots are the source of famous red dyes like rose madder and Turkey red. To produce dye, the roots must be harvested after two years of growth. The root has two distinct layers. The outer red layer produces a common type of dye. The inner yellow layer is used to create a more refined variety. Madder grows best in loamy soils, such as sand and clay. It also thrives in creek beds where moisture is constant.

Easter-eggs-root
Easter-eggs-root

Creating a lasting color on fabric requires a specific chemical process. Dyers use a substance called a mordant to fix the dye to the cloth. Alum is the most common mordant used for this purpose. There are several ways to extract the color from the roots. Some methods involve fermentation, which is known as Fleurs de garance in France. Other methods use sulfuric acid to dissolve the pulverized roots. This can produce a dye called garance or a second dye called garanceux. Another method involves treating the roots with alcohol to produce colorine. This colorine contains 40 to 50 times more alizarin than the raw roots.

Naturally dyed skeins
Naturally dyed skeins

Chemistry explains why the madder root is so colorful. The roots contain several polyphenolic compounds. These include purpuroxanthin, quinizarin, and purpurin. The most important compound for red dye is alizarin. Alizarin is an anthraquinone that provides the signature red color. In 1826, a French chemist named Pierre Jean Robiquet isolated alizarin and purpurin. Purpurin is usually colorless, but it turns red in alkaline solutions. By mixing purpurin with clay, alum, and ammonia, people can create a brilliant red called madder lake. In 1855, a German professor named Leonhardi used alizarin to create alizarine ink.

Rubia tinctorum - Köhler–s Medizinal-Pflanzen-123
Rubia tinctorum - Köhler–s Medizinal-Pflanzen-123

Humans have used madder for thousands of years. Archaeological evidence shows madder-dyed cotton in Mohenjo-daro, India, from the 3rd millennium BCE. In ancient times, the plant was known as Manjishtha in Sanskrit. Roman writers like Pliny the Elder mentioned the plant, which they called rubia passiva. During the Viking Age, madder remains were found in the levels of York. In Europe, some of the oldest dyed textiles come from the grave of Queen Arnegundis. This grave is located in Saint-Denis, France, and dates to between 565 and 570 AD. Even Charlemagne mentioned the plant in his writings.

Naturally dyed skeins
Naturally dyed skeins

Madder was also used for famous clothing and complex dyeing recipes. The British Redcoats wore coats dyed with madder. One very famous method was creating Turkey red. This was a strong, fast red dye for cotton. The process was very complicated and used many ingredients. These included sumac, oak galls, calf's blood, sheep's dung, oil, soda, alum, and tin. This method was developed in India and spread to Turkey. By the 1820s, roller-printed cottons using Turkey red were very fashionable in England.

Naturally dyed skeins
Naturally dyed skeins

Scientific progress eventually changed how madder was used. In 1869, German chemists Graebe and Liebermann synthesized artificial alizarin. This meant alizarin could be produced industrially starting in 1871. This discovery effectively ended the large-scale cultivation of the madder plant. By the 20th century, madder was only grown in certain areas of France. Despite this, the plant remains important in nature. It serves as a food plant for the larvae of certain Lepidoptera species. One example is the hummingbird hawk moth.

Rubia tinctorum - Köhler–s Medizinal-Pflanzen-123
Rubia tinctorum - Köhler–s Medizinal-Pflanzen-123
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Rubia tinctorum - Köhler–s...
File:Naturally dyed skeins.jpg
Naturally dyed skeins.jpg
File:Easter-eggs-root.jpg
Easter-eggs-root.jpg
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