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Makalu

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Makalu is one of the most significant mountains on Earth. It is the fifth-highest mountain in the world.

Makalu 9982
Makalu 9982

This peak is classified as an eight-thousander. This term describes mountains with a summit elevation above 8,000 meters above mean sea level (AMSL). Makalu is located within the Mahalangur Himalayas. It sits directly on the border between China and Nepal.

Himalaya annotated
Himalaya annotated

The mountain is famous for its unique physical structure. It is an isolated peak that takes the shape of a four-sided pyramid.

Makalu 3D
Makalu 3D

The mountain features several distinct geological parts. The main summit is surrounded by two notable subsidiary peaks. One is Kangchungtse, also known as Makalu II. It is located about north-northwest of the main summit. The second peak is Chomo Lonzo. This peak rises north-northeast of the main summit. It sits across a broad plateau. A narrow feature called a saddle connects Kangchungtse to Chomo Lonzo.

Makalu 3D
Makalu 3D

Climbing history shows that Makalu is a very difficult peak to conquer. In the spring of 1954, the California Himalayan Expedition attempted a climb. This American team was led by Riley Keegan. It included Sierra Club members like Bill Long and Allen Steck. They tried to climb the southeast ridge. However, a constant barrage of storms forced them to turn back. During that same spring, a New Zealand team was also active. They were unable to climb very high due to illness and injury.

Makalu 9982
Makalu 9982

The first successful summit occurred in May 1955. A French expedition led by Jean Franco achieved this feat. Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy were the first to reach the top on May 15. The following day, Jean Franco and the sirdar Gyalzen Norbu Sherpa also summited. On May 17, four more members reached the summit. These climbers were Jean Bouvier, Serge Coupé, Pierre Leroux, and André Vialatte. This was a rare achievement for the time. Most expeditions only saw one or two members reach the top. This team established the standard route via the north face and northeast ridge. They used the saddle between Makalu and Kangchungtse, known as the Makalu-La.

Since that first ascent, many climbers have set remarkable records. In 1975, a Slovenian expedition led by Aleš Kunaver climbed the steep south face. Stane Belak was the first of this group to reach the top. This was the highest summit achieved without supplementary oxygen. In 1981, Jerzy Kukuczka completed a solo ascent in Alpine style. He used no supplemental oxygen and followed a new route. In 1988, Marc Batard climbed the West Buttress in a single day.

Makalu 9916
Makalu 9916

More recently, Karl Egloff set a speed record in 2022. He climbed the mountain in 17 hours and 18 minutes. He did this without bottled oxygen or Sherpa support.

Makalu 9916
Makalu 9916

Different climbing styles and routes have been tested on the mountain. The 1960–61 Silver Hut expedition attempted to climb without oxygen twice. Neither attempt was successful. In 1970, Japanese climbers Y. Ozaki and A. Tanaka climbed the southeast ridge. In 1971, Frenchmen B. Mellet and Y. Seigneur climbed the technical West Pillar route. The West face was finally ascended in 1997 by a Russian expedition. This successful climb won the 1998 Piolet d'Or award.

Makalu 3D
Makalu 3D

In 2009, Simone Moro and Denis Urubko completed the first winter ascent. This was the final Nepali eight-thousander to be climbed in winter.

The geography at the base of the mountain is also significant. A glacier valley called the Makalu-Barun Valley sits at the foot of the peak.

Barun Valley - Nghe
Barun Valley - Nghe

This valley is located in the Sankhuwasabha district of Nepal. It lies entirely within the Makalu Barun National Park. The area is a focus for expeditions searching for the yeti. The mountain remains a vital part of the Himalayan landscape and a major challenge for mountaineers.

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🖼️ Images & Media (5)
File:Makalu 9916.JPG
Makalu 9916.JPG
File:Makalu 9982.JPG
Makalu 9982.JPG
File:Makalu 3D.gif
Makalu 3D.gif
File:Barun Valley - Nghe.jpg
Barun Valley - Nghe.jpg
File:Himalaya annotated.jpg
Himalaya annotated.jpg
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