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Lisa Fonssagrives

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Lisa Fonssagrives was a multi-talented artist who changed the world of fashion. She was a dancer, a sculptor, and a photographer. Most importantly, she is widely credited as being the first supermodel. A supermodel is a person who achieves extreme fame and success in the modeling industry. Fonssagrives used her skills in movement to redefine how clothes were presented to the public. She viewed her work in fashion as an extension of her physical training. She once famously described her role in modeling as being a "good clothes hanger."

Her career began through the discipline of dance and physical expression. Born Lisa Birgitta Bernstone in 1911 in Uddevalla, Sweden, she studied art and dance from a young age. She attended Mary Wigman's school in Berlin to refine these skills. After returning to Sweden, she even opened her own dance school. Her path toward modeling started when she moved to Paris to train for ballet. During this time, she worked as a private dance teacher for Fernand Fonssagrives. She believed that the grace required for modeling was essentially the same as dancing.

Her transition into the fashion industry happened through a chance encounter in Paris. In 1936, a photographer named Willy Maywald saw her while she was in an elevator. He asked her to model hats for his photography projects. These images were eventually sent to the famous magazine Vogue. Other professional photographers, such as Horst P. Horst, soon took test photographs of her to see her potential. By July 1939, her fame grew when she appeared in the German weekly magazine Der Stern. She was photographed there by André Steiner, proving her reach was international.

Fonssagrives reached the highest levels of the fashion industry during the 1930s, 1940s, and 1950s. Before she even arrived in the United States in 1939, she was already considered a top model. Her face appeared on the covers of many prestigious publications. These included Town & Country, Life, Time, Vogue, and the original Vanity Fair. Reports from that era described her as the highest paid and highest praised high fashion model in the business. She collaborated with a long list of legendary photographers. These included Man Ray, Richard Avedon, Erwin Blumenfeld, and George Hoyningen-Huene.

Her personal life was also deeply connected to the world of art and photography. She married the Parisian photographer Fernand Fonssagrives in 1935, though they later divorced in 1949. In 1950, she married the American photographer Irving Penn. Through this marriage, she became a muse for Penn, meaning she served as a primary source of artistic inspiration for his work. This connection between the model and the photographer helped shape much of the visual culture of that era. Her influence remained strong even after her primary modeling years had passed.

After her career in modeling ended, Fonssagrives continued to express her creativity in new ways. She moved into fashion design by creating a leisurewear clothing line for Lord & Taylor. In the 1960s, she shifted her focus entirely to sculpture. She became a recognized sculptor and was represented by the Marlborough Gallery in Manhattan. Her artistic legacy is preserved through the Lisa Fonssagrives-Penn Trust, which was founded in 1994. In 1995, a large retrospective exhibition of her work was held at the Moderna Museet in Stockholm. This event allowed the public to see her evolution from a dancer to a sculptor.

Today, the value of her work is recognized in both art and commerce. Her influence can be seen in the careers of her children, who also became designers. Her daughter, Mia Fonssagrives-Solow, is a jewelry designer and sculptor. Her son, Tom Penn, is also a designer. The financial value of her image remains significant in the art market. For example, an Irving Penn photograph of Fonssagrives from 1950 sold for $57,360 at a Christie's auction in 2004. Her life represents a continuous link between the worlds of dance, fashion, and fine art.

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