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Fez (hat)

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The fez is a distinctive felt headdress shaped like a short, peakless cylinder.

Fez
Fez

It is most commonly recognized by its bright red color and a black tassel attached to the top. In many Arabic-speaking regions, it is known as a tarboosh. The term tarboosh is thought to be a compound of the words for "head" and "cover." Some linguists suggest the name relates to the word for "sweat," as the hat was meant to cover perspiration. The name "fez" itself likely refers to the Moroccan city of Fez. This connection exists because the city was a source of the crimson berries used to dye the felt.

MahmutII
MahmutII

Manufacturing the fez has evolved significantly through different eras and technologies. Originally, makers achieved the striking scarlet or merlot hues using extracts from the cornel plant. To meet high demand, skilled artisans from Tunis immigrated to Istanbul to establish factories in the Eyüp neighborhood. As industrialization progressed, the invention of low-cost synthetic dyes changed the production process. This shift allowed factories in Strakonice, in the then-Austrian Czech Republic, to mass-produce the headwear. Over time, the physical characteristics of the hat changed based on the era. Variations appeared in the height, rigidity, and even the color of the tassel.

RaczynskiAleksander.ZuawiWWalce.1858
RaczynskiAleksander.ZuawiWWalce.1858

In the early 19th century, the fez became a powerful tool for political and social reform. Sultan Mahmud II of the Ottoman Empire sought to modernize his state and military. In 1826, he suppressed the Janissaries and began implementing sweeping military reforms. By 1827, he ordered 50,000 fezzes from Tunis for his new army, the Asakir-i Mansure-i Muhammediye.

Dömeke Harbi Zonaro
Dömeke Harbi Zonaro

In 1829, the Sultan issued regulations requiring all civil and religious officials to wear the fez. This was intended to replace the turban, which acted as a marker of identity. By removing the turban, the Sultan hoped to create a more unified and egalitarian population. The fez replaced elaborate sumptuary laws that had previously signaled a person's rank or religion.

Because it was adopted by the Ottoman state, the fez became a symbol of diverse identities. It was not limited to one faith; Muslims, Christians, and Jews all wore the hat. In the Balkans, different religious groups added specific symbols to their fezzes. For example, Orthodox citizens in Montenegro wore a Greek cross on the front. Supporters of the Illyrian movement in Croatia wore a star and crescent. In the Principality of Serbia, ministerial officers wore red fezzes featuring the Serbian coat of arms.

David Ben-Gurion and Yitzhak Ben Zvi as law students in Turkey D683-118
David Ben-Gurion and Yitzhak Ben Zvi as law students in Turkey D683-118

The hat eventually became a symbol of an "Oriental" cultural identity in the eyes of the West.

Military history is deeply intertwined with the use of the fez. It served as an arming cap for mail armor between the 1400s and 1700s. The Turkish Army used a red fez with a blue tassel as standard headwear from the 1840s until 1910. Many colonial troops also adopted the hat as part of their official uniforms. The French North African regiments, such as the Zouaves, wore wide red fezzes.

RaczynskiAleksander.ZuawiWWalce.1858
RaczynskiAleksander.ZuawiWWalce.1858

During the American Civil War, volunteer Zouave regiments wore versions of this style. Other units, like the British King's African Rifles, wore high, straight-sided fezzes in red or black. Even the Greek Army's Evzones regiments wore a distinctive version from 1837 until World War II.

Despite its widespread use, the fez eventually faced political bans. In 1925, Mustafa Kemal Atatürk outlawed the hat in Turkey as part of the Hat Revolution. This was a major part of his modernizing reforms to move away from Ottoman traditions. Egypt later implemented a similar ban in 1958 under the government of Gamal Abdel Nasser. Cairo had been a vital center for fez production before this occurred.

Palestinian delegation 1929
Palestinian delegation 1929

Today, while it is no longer part of Turkish men's clothing, production has resumed in Egypt primarily for tourists.

Today, the fez retains several different meanings depending on where it is found. In Morocco, it remains a symbol of resistance against French colonization. It is also still used as a part of the Moroccan royal court dress.

Mohammed VI meets John Kerry and Dwight Bush
Mohammed VI meets John Kerry and Dwight Bush

In the English-speaking world, the hat was sometimes adopted by various fraternal orders. It can also be seen as a piece of luxury fashion in Western history. From a military uniform to a symbol of national reform, the fez remains a complex piece of cultural history.

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🖼️ Images & Media (13)
File:Fez.jpg
Fez.jpg
File:MahmutII.jpg
MahmutII.jpg
File:Palestinian delegation 1929.jpg
Palestinian delegation 1929.jpg
File:Hassan_al-Banna.jpg
Hassan_al-Banna.jpg
File:David Ben-Gurion and Yitzhak Ben Zvi as law students in Turkey D683-118.jpg
David Ben-Gurion and Yitzhak Ben Zvi as...
File:RaczynskiAleksander.ZuawiWWalce.1858.jpg
RaczynskiAleksander.ZuawiWWalce.1858.jpg
File:Dömeke Harbi Zonaro.jpg
Dömeke Harbi Zonaro.jpg
File:Bundesarchiv Bild 101III-Mielke-036-23, Waffen-SS, 13. Gebirgs-Div. "Handschar".jpg
Bundesarchiv Bild 101III-Mielke-036-23,...
File:Mohammed VI meets John Kerry and Dwight Bush.jpg
Mohammed VI meets John Kerry and Dwight Bush.jpg
File:MohammadAliTelangana.png
MohammadAliTelangana.png
File:Maulana Zafar Ali Khan.jpg
Maulana Zafar Ali Khan.jpg
File:Malay Regiment at bayonet practice.jpg
Malay Regiment at bayonet practice.jpg

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