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Cufflink

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Cufflinks are specialized items of jewelry used to secure the cuffs of dress shirts.

כפתור חפת
כפתור חפת

Unlike standard shirts that use sewn-on buttons, these shirts feature buttonholes on both sides of the cuff but lack buttons entirely. This design allows for two distinct ways of wearing the cuff. In the "kissing" style, both edges of the fabric point outward. In the "barrel-style," one edge points outward while the other points inward to overlap the hem.

Cufflinks-old hg
Cufflinks-old hg

While the barrel-style was popularized in the United States by the 19th-century entertainer Dan Rice, the kissing style remains the more common preference.

To function, a cufflink must pass through the buttonholes and then lock into place.

The most traditional design is the "double-panel" type. This consists of two decorated circular discs connected by a short post or a chain. Other common designs include "whale-back" and "toggle-back" styles. These feature a flat, decorated face on one side and a functional mechanism on the reverse. The mechanism often uses a swivel bar attached to a post. To put the link on, the wearer aligns the bar vertically with the post. Once the link is through the fabric, the wearer rotates the bar horizontally to lock it in position.

Cufflinks come in many different forms and materials. Manufacturers use glass, stone, leather, and various metals, including precious metals like gold or silver. The visible front sections can be highly decorative. They may feature gemstones, enamel, or colorful inlays. Some designs are even three-dimensional.

Gemelos-Camisa-Nudos
Gemelos-Camisa-Nudos

A more casual alternative is the silk knot. These are often made of two conjoined knots called a "monkey's fist" or a "Turk's head." While originally made of silk, many modern versions use fabric over an elasticated core. Some even feature metal shaped to look like these fabric knots.

History shows that cufflinks evolved alongside the development of the men's shirt.

Charvet cuff
Charvet cuff

Humans have worn shirt-like tunics for thousands of years. After the Middle Ages, decorative elements like embroidery and ruffs became common on collars and wrists. Originally, cuffs were held together with simple ribbons. By the mid-19th century, shirts became more formal and the fabric was heavily starched. This starch made the cuffs too stiff for traditional buttons to work easily. Consequently, men in the middle and upper classes began adopting cufflinks. The Industrial Revolution later allowed these items to be mass-produced for many different budgets.

Different regions became famous for their specific styles of production. In Germany, Idar-Oberstein and Pforzheim were the primary centers for making cufflinks.

Manschettenknopf Idar-Oberstein
Manschettenknopf Idar-Oberstein

Makers in Idar-Oberstein focused on producing cufflinks using simpler materials for more modest budgets. In contrast, the jewelers in Pforzheim produced premium links for the upper classes using genuine gold and silver.

Manschettenknoepfe Onyx
Manschettenknoepfe Onyx

This tradition of high-quality craftsmanship continues in Pforzheim today, where makers still produce premium links using historic and modern patterns.

Some advanced designs allow the wearer to change the look of their jewelry.

VM Antik 010 klein
VM Antik 010 klein

In the 1960s, Cartier introduced interchangeable cufflinks. These consist of a metal bar with a loop at each end. The wearer can insert decorative pieces called "batons" into these loops. Cartier offered batons made from materials like coral, lapis lazuli, onyx, and tiger's eye. These are held in place by a small screw. Another company, Pranga & Co., created a system where a motif called an "Anker" slides onto the cufflink. This system is similar to how charms are added to a charm bracelet.

Cufflinks serve as important tools for expressing personal style and social etiquette. They can be worn with everything from casual attire to formal "white tie" events. For very formal occasions, pearl cufflinks are often the preferred choice. In the past, sartorial experts suggested coordinating the metal of the cufflinks with other accessories like watches or belt buckles. They even suggested wearing gold during the day and silver in the evening. While these strict rules are less critical today, cufflinks remain a significant way to signal personality. Colorful, whimsical designs can suggest a person is friendly and fun-loving, while traditional styles suit business or formal settings.

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🖼️ Images & Media (8)
File:כפתור חפת.jpg
כפתור חפת.jpg
File:Cufflinks-old hg.jpg
Cufflinks-old hg.jpg
File:Double panel cuff links.jpg
Double panel cuff links.jpg
File:Gemelos-Camisa-Nudos.jpg
Gemelos-Camisa-Nudos.jpg
File:Charvet cuff.jpg
Charvet cuff.jpg
File:Manschettenknoepfe Onyx.jpg
Manschettenknoepfe Onyx.jpg
File:Manschettenknopf Idar-Oberstein.jpg
Manschettenknopf Idar-Oberstein.jpg
File:VM Antik 010 klein.jpg
VM Antik 010 klein.jpg
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